Persimmon passion

Photo: marion van Dijk
Bright orange and shiny, persimmons remain a mystery to many. Now is the time to demystify them as they come into season in late autumn and early winter.

A lime-green bowl of glossy orange persimmons look great in your kitchen but they should be much more than just decorative.

Persimmons have been a major feature in the diet of Asian countries for centuries, yet they are neglected here and should rightly hold a place in the delights of autumn. They are of the genus Diospyros, fruit of the gods, from the ebony wood family. The tree has elegant wide spreading arms and, as autumn approaches, the leaves turn vibrant colours. They fall from the tree to reveal the fruit that mirrors the changing leaf colours - first green, then apricot, and finally orange.

There are principally two types of persimmon that feature in New Zealand. One variety is astringent and the other non-astringent. The different persimmons contain varying nutrients but they are generally rich in vitamins A, B and C and contain calcium and iron. They can be eaten raw, cooked or dried.

The astringent persimmon, the hayica, is heart-shaped with a point on the bottom. The fruit can only be eaten when it is completely ripe as the tannins in it make it bitter until it ripens. When ripe, the fruit becomes soft and jelly-like and lovers of it say that spooned into fruit salad it fills in the spaces. Mixed with yoghurt and other fruit it is delicious as a smoothie. It also makes a great pudding, a favourite in California.

To prepare the fruit, wash it, remove the leaves, cut in half, remove the seeds and scoop out the soft flesh.

The non-astringent persimmon, the fuyu, is flatter and wider than the hayica and has a delectable crunchy texture. It should be eaten while still firm and is generally consumed raw.

Some aficionados say fuyu persimmons have the taste of honey and apricots and they combine well with a range of savoury and sweet accompaniments.

You can replace tomatoes in a salad with fuyu persimmons and, combined with spinach and balsamic vinegar, they make a wonderful salad.

Prepare the fruit the same as the hayica but remove the core before slicing it into whatever shape you wish. The skin can be removed or eaten.

Persimmons should be bought just as they are ripening or stored at room temperature until they are ripe, and then should be stored in the fridge. They don't keep well, so eat soon once they are ripe.

Don't buy bruised fruit without leaves. When the fruit is ripe it has a smooth and glossy surface and a bright colour.

Persimmons freeze well - either the flesh of the hayica or whole fruit will keep for months in the freezer.

Here are some more recipes.

PERSIMMON AND FENNEL SALAD

Photo:Marion van Dijk
2 fennel bulbs
3 fuyu persimmons
Juice of 2 lemons
3 Tbsp of good quality extra virgin olive oil
100g of a good blue cheese

Prepare the fennel bulb by washing well and discarding any damaged parts. Finely chop the bulb and the feathery green fennel herb at the top of the plant. Peel the persimmons, cut in half and remove the cores. Slice thinly and add to the fennel. Pour over the oil and lemon juice, season with salt and pepper, gently toss the salad and top with crumbled blue cheese.
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PERSIMMON CORIANDER SALSA

2 fuyu persimmons, peeled and finely chopped
1 Tbsp of lime juice
1 jalapeno chilli, finely chopped
1/2 red onion, finely chopped

Combine all the ingredients and serve with grilled pork tenderloin or duck breast.

PERSIMMON PUDDING

75g butter
3 eggs
340g hayica persimmon pulp
340g flour
170g honey
2 tsp baking powder
1 tsp cinnamon
1/2 tsp nutmeg
1/4 tsp ground cloves
1/3 cup milk
1 cup chopped almonds
1 cup raisins

Cream butter. Add eggs one at a time, then add persimmon pulp and honey. Sift dry ingredients and mix in. Stir in milk and add nuts and raisins. Pour into a greased 25cm dish and bake at 150 degrees Celsius for 40-50 minutes. Serve with whipped cream.

Glorious whitebait

Photo> Marion van Dijk
Whitebait may be bound up in mystique and mythology, but that doesn't mean you can't be adventurous with it.

Whitebait has to be a Kiwi icon. The mere mention of the word conjures up joy for many. Even though whitebait in some form or other is enjoyed in many parts of the world, Kiwis love to lay claim to our whitebait as being superior to those caught in other places.

What people may not know is that whitebait, in New Zealand, are the young of five freshwater native species of the galaxiidae family. They can be caught in rivers throughout the country (although West Coasters believe their whitebait is the finest in the country and, arguably, it could be, given the quantity and quality of the catch).

The species are inanga (galaxias maculates), koaro (galaxias brevipinnis), banded kokopu (galaxias fasciatus), giant kokopu (galaxias argenteus) and shortjaw kokopu (galaxias postvectis). In rivers throughout the country, inanga, koaro and banded kokopu form the majority of the catch, with inanga being the most common.

Whitebait start life as eggs laid in estuary vegetation. When the larvae hatch, they are carried out to sea to spend the winter feeding on small crustaceans before starting their return journey upriver to live in fresh water. This is when the whitebait season starts and fisherfolk come out in droves with either fine-meshed hand-held nets or set nets to line river banks all over the country, dreaming of the catch and their first feed of "bait".

There is an air of mystery and intrigue around catching whitebait. For some reason, people are prepared to lie about their catch and will go to the lengths of using false-bottomed buckets to pretend that their catch is meagre, presumably with the intent of discouraging others from fishing in their part of the river. Asking a whitebaiter about where they fish will be received with an uncomfortable shuffle and a vague reply such as "Oh, up the river".

There is as much debate about the right way to cook whitebait as there is fascination with the small silvery fish. A visit to a down-home Kiwi cafe can have you eating whitebait patties where the taste of the whitebait is lost in flour, eggs, the frying and being slapped between two pieces of white bread. More often than not, the ratio of whitebait to batter has the batter winning.

Most Kiwi cooks swear that whitebait should be cooked as plainly as possible. A good rule of thumb when making patties or fritters is to allow about 100 grams of whitebait to one egg to bind them together and create a form.

The disagreement tends to be over what can or should accompany the whitebait, with many arguing that ingredients such as garlic, chives and parsley detract from the taste.

There is a myriad of recipes for whitebait fritters and whitebait omelettes, all more or less following the egg to whitebait ratio, with some recipes advocating flour and others not, and others suggesting separating the egg yolk from the white and beating the whites until fluffy before adding them to the batter.

We would like to suggest that it is, in fact, not sacrilegious to play around with whitebait, and although the flavour is delicate, there are some great ways to enhance that flavour.

Rather than giving you the traditional whitebait fritter or omelette recipe, we would like to share the following, more adventurous, recipes with you. Try these and make your own decisions.

Whitebait crepes
Serves 4

Photo: Marion van Dijk
This recipe is from author Keri Hulme, an avid and passionate whitebaiter. These crepes are both delicious and filling.

Crepe batter
4 tbsp flour
1 egg
1 cup of milk
pinch of salt
20g butter, melted

Mix ingredients into a smooth batter and pour into a lightly buttered hot pan to evenly coat the pan. Turn once. The crepe should be as thin as possible and evenly browned. Set aside, covered, while you make the filling.

Whitebait filling
400g whitebait
1 tbsp coriander or parsley
1 tsp salt
2 tsp chopped jalapeno pepper

Using 100g of whitebait per crepe (400g), saute the whitebait in 20g of butter for a couple of minutes until the whitebait is translucent and has barely cooked through. Toss through the coriander and jalapeno and salt. Spoon on to crepes and roll up. Pour remaining butter from the pan over crepes and serve.

Wine match: Goose Bay chardonnay.

Whitebait with tomato and caper salsa
Serves 6-8
Adapted from www.fooddownunder.com.

Photo:Marion van Dijk
Salsa
Combine:
1 cup seeded, peeled and diced tomatoes
1 tbsp capers, finely chopped
3 tbsp red onion, finely chopped
2 anchovy fillets, finely chopped
1 tsp lemon zest
1 tbsp chopped parsley
salt and pepper to taste
1 cup olive oil
sherry vinegar or lime juice to taste

Whitebait
500g whitebait
cup of flour
1 tsp salt
1 tsp freshly ground pepper
1 tsp paprika

Dredge the whitebait in seasoned flour and saute in clarified butter or vegetable oil until golden and crisp. Drain and then heap in the centre of a plate with a couple of tablespoons of the salsa mixture. Serve immediately with lime segments.

Wine match: Waimea pinot gris.

Sauteed whitebait with fresh asparagus and beurre blanc
Makes 8 entree-size portions
Adapted from www.tvnz.co.nz.

Beurre blanc
50ml white wine
50ml white wine vinegar
1 shallot
8 peppercorns
1 bay leaf
100ml cream
250g butter, cold and cut into small squares
salt and pepper
squeeze of lemon juice

Place the wine and vinegar in a pan. Roughly chop the shallot and add to the liquid with the peppercorns and bay leaf. Place over a medium heat and reduce by three-quarters. Next, add the cream and reduce by half. Cool slightly, then return to a very low heat, whisking in the butter piece by piece until it is all incorporated and silky smooth. Strain through a sieve to remove solids. Season and add the lemon juice.

Steam the asparagus until just tender - do not overcook. Allow 2 to 3 spears of asparagus per person.

Whitebait
400g whitebait
flour for dredging
salt and pepper

Toss the whitebait in the flour and sieve to remove excess flour. Saute in a combination of vegetable oil and butter. Cook for about a minute and then toss and cook on the other side.

Layer the asparagus on the plate followed by a mound of whitebait, then spoon the beurre blanc over the top. Finish with a squeeze of lemon.

Wine match: Waimea Estate classic riesling.

Scallops in the bay, fennel in the field

Photo: Rob Corlett


Scallops are a rich and delicious shellfish that are sought after as a menu item when they are in season. They are culinary regulars in both Asian and Western cuisine and are prized in many cultures around the world. We regard them as quite commonplace in New Zealand, but in parts of Europe they are more scarce and expensive treasures.

They are remarkably versatile, combine extremely well with a range of flavours and can be enjoyed in many ways - raw on the shell (preferably on the side of a boat out in the bay), in sashimi, lightly sauteed with very little to adorn them, to more complex recipes involving wine and cheeses in classic recipes such as Scallops Mornay.

The key to cooking, as with any fish, is to not overcook them. A perfectly cooked scallop should still be slightly translucent in the centre.

A scallop is a bivalve (two shells) with one flat shell and one concave shell. The adductor muscle (the white meat) is used to open and close the shell. This white meat is the part that is called the scallop in culinary terms, along with the orange roe. (A great cooking hint about roe is that it can be used to thicken a sauce - just crush the roe into the poaching liquid and whisk, and the sauce will thicken). Interestingly, in North America the roe is taken from the scallop muscle and only the white part of the scallop is sold.

Scallops, like all shellfish, are an excellent source of Omega 3, an essential fatty acid that lowers cholesterol and aids circulation.

Scallops can be sourced all around New Zealand. Locally, the situation is a bit grim, with availability of scallops in Tasman Bay at dramatically low levels. People may not be aware that our scallop beds are dying and that there has been no commercial fishing in the bay for five years. Commercial supply is still viable in both Golden Bay and the Marlborough Sounds, and recreational fishers can still find some scallops in Tasman Bay, with adjacent areas still producing a good supply in the season from November to July. A recent article in The Nelson Mail featured recreational fishermen in Golden Bay who talked about the abundance of scallops there and the ease of catching them.

As mentioned earlier, scallops mix very well with a variety of flavours, and they taste particularly fabulous combined with the mild anise flavour of fennel.

Florence fennel or finocchio is an essential Italian herb (and vegetable) that has been grown and eaten in Italy forever but has only recently become available in New Zealand. It is similar to celery in many ways but has a wonderful anise flavour that adds so much to dishes. It can be found at Nelson City Fresh Choice and sometimes at New World. It can also be bought direct from Finocchio Farms (www.finocchifarm.co.nz). Fennel can be eaten raw in salads (sliced finely) or braised or sauteed (chopped into four pieces or more, depending on the size) and it is delicious chargrilled on the barbecue. Normally, it comes with some of the wispy herb on top, which can be chopped and added to whatever you are cooking. It has a delicious anise flavour, and this can be enhanced by adding some fennel seeds or a splash or two of pernod to the dish to give a more dramatic anise flavour. It is a great vegetable to experiment with if you haven't done so.

Three recipes follow that give you the opportunity to try this great combination of flavours and textures.

Seared Scallops with Fennel Puree and Citrus
Serves 5
250g fennel bulb
100g white onion
25 scallops
2 1/2 lemons
2 oranges in segments
2 limes in segments
150ml extra virgin olive oil
Salt and black pepper
Trim the fennel bulb and finely slice. Saute diced white onion and fennel bulb. Add lemon juice and a little water, cover and cook over a low heat until soft. Cool and puree in a blender or food processor with a little olive oil. The mixture should not be too runny; it needs to be able to be mounded on the plate when served.
Cut the limes, lemons and oranges into segments.
Make a dressing with equal parts olive oil and lemon juice; add salt and pepper to taste.
Sear the scallops in a hot pan with a little oil. The scallops should be golden on the outside and slightly translucent in the middle this will depend on the size of the scallop (generally about 1-2 minutes each side).
Warm the puree and place five spoonfuls of it on each plate. Top each mound with a scallop. Arrange segments neatly around the plate. Dress with the citrus dressing and garnish with some of the whispy fennel leaves from the top of the bulb.

Grilled Scallops and Fennel with Lime Pernod Dressing
Serves 3

1 large fennel bulb (or 2 smaller bulbs)
Slice the fennel bulb lengthwise into four portions. Lightly brush with olive oil and salt and pepper. Grill on the barbecue until it softens slightly and is well marked by the charcoal but is still slightly crisp.

15 scallops
Grill the scallops on the barbecue or in a pan for 1-2 minutes on each side.

Dressing
3 tbsp olive oil
1 tbsp lime juice
1 tsp pernod
1 tsp chilli flakes
Sea salt
Combine the ingredients and mix well.
Put the fennel on the plate first, add the scallops on top and pour the dressing over the top. Garnish with either fresh tarragon or parsley.

Lil's Pasta with Fennel, Prawn and Scallop Sauce
Serves 4
2 cloves garlic
2 medium-sized fennel bulbs
1 red onion
3 cans of Italian tomatoes
1 cup white wine
3 tbsp each fresh basil and oregano
1 tbsp toasted fennel seeds
1 cup olive oil
1 tsp Dijon mustard
Salt and black pepper
2 tsp raw sugar
20 scallops, 12 raw prawns (either in the shell or shelled)
400g fresh linguini pasta
Saute finely sliced fennel, onion and garlic in the olive oil until softened and turning slightly golden. Add the tomatoes, fennel seed, oregano and basil, mustard, sugar and salt and pepper. Simmer gently for about 30 minutes until the ingredients are well incorporated.
Cook the pasta until al dente. Add the prawns to the sauce and cook through. Add the scallops and cook until done just a few minutes, depending on the size of the scallops. Drain the pasta and serve with the seafood sauce. Add parmesan cheese to taste.

Not just the cherry on top

Image: Marion van Dijk
Nelson mail

Summer time in Nelson is not complete without street vendors selling boxes of cherries through the main streets. Somehow, cherries and summer go hand in hand.

How many of you have a cherry tree in your garden and have watched the cherries grow, from blossom to reddening fruit, only to one day find that every single cherry is gone from the tree? How do the birds know exactly what moment to pounce? No wonder the cherry orchards of Marlborough are dressed in netting to keep their crop safe.

Speaking of those cherry orchards, on a recent trip to Marlborough I stopped at a roadside stall and bought a $10 box of cherries. I don't believe I have ever eaten cherries that tasted so fabulous. Deep purple, fat, sweet and succulent, they were divine all by themselves, with no adornment.

Always look for plump, smooth, shiny, blemish-free fruit, with green or supple stalks. Leave the stalks on the cherries, as they help keep them fresh. Don't wash the cherries until you are ready to use them, and store them in the refrigerator in a container where they are not piled up, as they can bruise easily.

Not only do they taste great, but cherries are also good for our health and an excellent source of antioxidants. Their deep red colour comes from anthocyanins (a group of antioxidants). Recent research confirms folklore that says cherries ease the pain of gout and arthritis as well as having other health-related qualities. Cherries contain calcium, potassium and fibre, as well as being one of the few food sources of melatonin, a natural sleep enhancer.

Cherries are naturally either sweet or sour. Normally, the cherries that we buy are the sweet kind, with a number of varieties available in the local markets - bing, dawson and sweetheart are common varieties. Sour cherries are usually smaller than sweet cherries and have a more intense flavour, and are used for baking.

Morello is the variety available locally, even though they are not as readily available as a commercial crop. Look for morello cherries at the Saturday market, sold by Jeff Norrish from Motueka Valley Organic Produce, West Bank Road, Motueka (motvlyorganics@slingshot.co.nz).

Cherries are usually associated with desserts, such as tarts or clafouti, if they ever make it to the cooking pot, but they are equally good as the basis for sauces to accompany meat. Cherries can also be added to salads. Another great way to try them is raw, and in dressings, with meat.

Try the following recipe to add variety to cold meat platters, and the cherry granita to accompany those long summer days. A granita is a semi-frozen dessert of sugar, water and flavourings, originally from Sicily.

Another way to use cherries is to make a cherry lemonade as an alternative to traditional lemonade before the cherry crop is done for another year.

Cherry vinaigrette for cold meat

Make a vinaigrette with three parts extra virgin olive oil to one part white balsamic vinegar, some sea salt, some freshly ground black pepper and lots of chopped mint. Add halved pitted cherries just before using. Spoon the vinaigrette over sliced cos lettuce with roasted duck, chicken or ham (with ham, add a teaspoon of good mustard to the dressing).


Cherry vodka granita
Image: Marion van Dijk
Nelson mail
400g sweet cherries
350g sugar
100ml lemon juice
60ml vodka

Put the cherries in a pan with 350ml of water, bring to the boil and mash to release the juices. Turn down the heat and simmer for 30 minutes, mashing occasionally until the fruit is soft and the liquid has reduced by a third. Strain, reserving the juice and discarding the solids.

Meanwhile, make a syrup with the sugar and 400ml of water, heating gently to dissolve, then simmer for 30 minutes until reduced by a third. Cool.

Combine the cherry juice with the sugar syrup and stir in the lemon juice. Pour on to a baking tray about 3cm deep (this quantity will fill about two baking trays). Freeze for about 30 minutes.

Scrape the base and edges into the soft middle, work a little to blend and then freeze again. Repeat the scraping every half-hour until the mixture is firm enough to make a spoonable slush - three to four times should be enough. Add vodka and scrape to blend.

Serve immediately in small bowls.

Cherry lemonade
1 cup sugar
1 cup water
500g of fresh cherries
1 cup of fresh lemon juice
6 cups of cold water

Heat the sugar and first cup of water to dissolve the sugar. Add 1 cup of cherries, bring to the boil and boil until the cherries soften. Set aside and cool. Strain the cooled syrup into a large jug, pressing the cherries to release their juice. Add lemon juice and cold water. Stir in the remaining cherries. Pour over ice and garnish with mint.

Precious spice is chef's gold

Photo: Marion van Dijk Nelson Mail

Sensations of summer always evoke in me the smell of saffron cooking on the beaches of the Spanish island of Formentera. A giant pan atop a gas ring on a rickety table, under cover of a makeshift tent roof; a chef preparing shellfish fresh from the fishing boats moored offshore; onion and garlic frying, and that distinctive earth-spice smell of saffron mixed with rice to make the quintessentially Spanish dish, paella.

Saffron is a spice associated with the cooking of not only Spain but also North Africa, Greece, the Middle East and India, yet it grows beautifully just down the road in Brightwater. A native of the Mediterranean, it thrives in our version of a Mediterranean climate.

Annemarie Moynihan has 500 square metres planted in this exotic spice, claimed to be the most expensive in the world. The crocus corm produces the flower that contains the threads (stigmas) that are saffron, and it grows very well here. It loves a little cold and frost in winter, and produces blue flowers in autumn, which must be harvested as soon as they bloom. The season is a short eight weeks, and Annemarie harvests about 500 grams of saffron.


Photo: Rob Corlett

The whole flower head is harvested and then the threads extracted and dried. It takes about 100 flowers to make one gram of saffron, and Annemarie sells each gram for $20, either through local markets or over the web at www.organicsaffron.co.nz.
She also supplies restaurants and Baku in Richmond.

The top of the south is the home of another enterprising saffron operation, the Saffron Room. Dave Pigou grows saffron in Marlborough on his vineyard and is in partnership with Nelsonian Diana Roper, a food scientist. They are developing value-added products such as Saffience, a water-soluble saffron extract. This bright red liquid takes the worry out of soaking saffron and can be added directly to dishes without any fuss or bother. The resulting colour in the food is an intense yellow that most other saffron does not provide so richly.

The Saffron Room, in Nelson's Harley St, is a fascinating laboratory using a freeze-drying method to initially treat the saffron before it is converted to an extract using pressurised carbon dioxide. You can buy Saffience from the shop, or go to the website for online purchases and more information about their excellent product (www.thesaffronroom.co.nz).


Photo: Rob Corlett

Saffron can also be bought in most major supermarkets, in very small packages produced by Masterfoods, but it does not compare with the products of either of our local producers. Sometimes saffron powder is sold, but beware of this, as it is impossible to establish the quality of the product in this form.

Saffron is a fantastic culinary ingredient and combines brilliantly with rice, potatoes, fish and chicken, as well as being an excellent ingredient for cakes, desserts, biscuits and jams.Its strong earth-spice flavour is not spicy hot but sharp and rich, combining very well with orange, rosemary and thyme, as well as chilli and other aromatic spices such as cinnamon and cumin. It imparts a beautiful orange-yellow colour to rice, potatoes, chicken and fish.

The key to using saffron is to rehydrate it in a small amount of hot liquid for a period of time before use - an hour is ideal but 10 minutes will suffice. The liquid turns a brilliant orange-yellow and the threads swell.

The threads can also be lightly toasted before soaking to enhance the flavour. Some people advocate pounding the saffron before soaking to increase the intensity of the colour and flavour. A little saffron goes a long way - one teaspoon soaked in three teaspoons of hot water will flavour a dish for six to eight people very well. If using Saffience, three teaspoons is equivalent to 10 threads of saffron. Saffron should be stored in a cool, dark place. It won't spoil but loses flavour and intensity over time, as any herb or spice does.

The four recipes that follow demonstrate great uses of saffron right now, in the height of summer.

Seafood paella
Photo:Marion van Dijk Nelson Mail

This recipe is for seafood only, but paella is traditionally also served with both chicken and sausages.

If you wish to include them, delete the "other seafood" and use 250g of chorizo sausage and 250g of chicken (either breast or wings). They should be mostly cooked before you add the rice to the mixture. Alternatively, cook them in another pan and add them to the mixture at the end.

500g raw shrimp or prawns, cleaned and shelled (use the shells to make a stock)
250g scallops
500g other fish or seafood could be mussels or a firm fish like monkfish
3-4 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
1 large onion
5 cloves garlic
1 large red pepper
400g can of tomatoes or the same of fresh tomatoes (use the juice of the canned tomatoes with the shrimp stock)
2 cups of short grain rice (use arborio or a similar rice; bomba paella rice is also available in some supermarkets)
2 tsp saffron
1 cup peas
Salt and pepper to taste
1 medium chilli (it should be moderate to hot)
lots of Italian parsley or coriander

First, make the stock by combining the shrimp shells and 4-5 cups of water. Add a handful of fresh thyme and chives. Simmer for 30 minutes. Sieve and discard the shells. You should have 3-4 cups of liquid.

In a paella pan or a large frying pan, heat the oil and saute the sliced onion, garlic, chilli and red pepper. Add the tomatoes and their juice, half a cup of shrimp stock and salt. Heat to boiling, then reduce the heat and cook for 15 minutes.

Stir in the rice and saffron and the remaining stock. Reduce heat, cover and simmer for about 20 minutes, until the rice is done. Add shrimp and scallops and peas and other seafood to the mixture and cook through, about another eight minutes.

Summer vegetables with saffron and parsley pesto with chilli

500g new potatoes such as jersey bennes or agria
1 large eggplant
4 courgettes
1 large red onion
6 tomatoes
3 cloves garlic
1 fennel bulb
1 tsp fennel seeds
1 tbsp oregano
1 tsp saffron
juice of an orange
1 cup white wine
vegetable stock to just cover the vegetables
salt and pepper to taste
4 tbsp olive oil

Slice all the vegetables and saute the onions, garlic and fennel bulb in olive oil.

Add the fennel seeds and oregano, then add the other vegetables and orange juice, saffron, wine and stock. Gently simmer until tender.

Serve with a cos lettuce salad and a pesto made with Italian parsley and chilli.

Parsley pesto: In a food processor, combine four cups of parsley with two cups of fresh basil. Add 1/2 cup of grated parmesan, 1/2 cup of toasted pine nuts, salt and pepper, a whole chilli (should be hot) and olive oil to make a medium-thick paste.

Ancient, unique and versatile

Photo:Marion van Dijk Nelson Mail

Figs are a luscious fruit, even called tantalising by some, with a unique taste and texture that combines sweet, juicy red flesh, smooth skin that easily splits apart, and crunchy edible seeds.

There are apparently more than 150 varieties of fig, and it is one of the oldest known fruits. Figs are native to a wide area ranging from India to Turkey, and there are references to them dating back to 2500-3000BC. In ancient Rome, they were considered a sacred fruit.

Figs prefer a Mediterranean climate, so they grow well here. They don't like wet weather while the fruit is developing, or too much cold in winter, especially when the trees are young. The fruit is very delicate and does not have a good shelf life, and this is the main reason why it is difficult to find fresh figs in the supermarket. If you don't have a tree yourself, hopefully you have friends who do, who will share their bounty.

Dried figs are easily available year round, and many recipes use them very effectively. Methods for drying figs include dehydration, sun drying and oven drying. The fruit must be fully ripe to have a well-developed flavour after drying.

When purchasing figs or picking them from the tree, they should have a rich colour and be plump and ripe to the feel, but not mushy. Ripe figs will keep for a couple of days in the fridge, but they should be stored flat in a shallow container so they do not bruise, and covered to protect them from other smells.

Aside from being truly delicious, figs are also good for you. They are high in potassium and are an excellent source of dietary fibre. They are also a source of calcium, iron and phosphorus. They even have small quantities of vitamins C and B. In fact, they have the highest mineral content of any common fruit.

Some early figs begin to ripen now and will be in their prime in about a month, so don't delay.

Fresh figs can be used in both sweet and savoury recipes, for entrees, mains or desserts. They combine beautifully with goat cheese or cream cheeses such as mascarpone, and taste great drizzled with balsamic vinegar or vincotta (cooked grape must). They work well with wine, honey and sugar. They are very tasty with ham or prosciutto, make beautiful jam (combined with ginger, cinnamon and cloves), and respond well with the sour elements of citrus. The following recipes experiment with some of these taste combinations.

Pork with figs and balsamic vinegar
Serves 4

1 tbsp butter
Quarter cup of chopped shallots
3 tbsp balsamic vinegar
1 cup chicken stock
6 fresh figs, cut into quarters
Half cup of cream
1 tbsp Italian parsley
2 pork fillets, sliced

Season the pork with salt and pepper and saute in a heavy-bottomed pan in some olive oil until cooked through. Set aside in a warm oven.

Melt the butter in the same pan and saute the shallots until golden. Add 2 tbsp of the balsamic vinegar and cook for a minute before adding the chicken stock. Reduce by half.

Add the figs and the cream and cook until the sauce has thickened. Add the remaining tablespoon of balsamic.

Season with salt and pepper. Arrange the pork on four plates, place the figs and sauce around the pork and sprinkle with the parsley.

Prosciutto, fig and goat cheese salad with baby spinach
Serves 4


Photo: marion van Dijk Nelson Mail

12 figs
200g fresh goat cheese
12 slices of prosciutto (use the prosciutto the same day it is sliced; it begins to go hard otherwise and is not as delicious. Try the Mediterranean Food Warehouse in Halifax St, Nelson for freshly sliced prosciutto)
2 cups baby spinach leaves
Extra virgin olive oil
Aged balsamic vinegar
1 clove garlic
Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Make a salad dressing. Use three parts oil (3 tbsp) to one part balsamic vinegar (1 tbsp). Add one clove of pressed garlic, sea salt and lots of black pepper. Mix well to combine.

Arrange the baby spinach leaves on four plates and allow three halved figs per plate. Drizzle the dressing over the figs, then top with the cheese, crumbled generously on each plate. Top with the slices of prosciutto. Serve immediately.

Figs poached in thyme and white wine with mascarpone

Half a cup of runny honey
750ml dry white wine
Peel of one lemon
2 tbsp lemon juice
A handful of fresh thyme
1 cinnamon quill
6 white peppercorns

Combine the honey and wine. Bring to the boil, lower the heat and cook, stirring constantly until the honey is dissolved. Add lemon peel, lemon juice, thyme, cinnamon and peppercorns. Put the figs into the wine syrup and simmer for 5 minutes, Remove the figs with a slotted spoon and set aside. Reduce the poaching liquid to about a cup. Strain and pour over figs and chill. Serve with a heaped spoonful of mascarpone.

The colourful world of chillies

Photo: Rob Corlett
Chillies (or Chiles in Spanish)
Chillies are finally becoming part of our culinary landscape.

photo:Brisa Pelayo making salsa Marion van Dijk Nelson Mail
An ingredient that is not widely understood here, demonstrated in the fact that many supermarkets when stocking chillies will simply say on the package: ‘chillies’. You may get told that they are hot or not so hot but even that information is not consistent and often not accurate. Most kiwis are probably familiar with the cayenne variety(usually ground up and sold in packages labelled cayenne pepper) but what is enlightening to learn is that there are over 200 varieties of chillies grown in Mexico , the home of the capsicum plant. It is native to Central and South America as well. A wild variety of capsicum has been found on anthropological sites in central Mexico dating back to 5-7000 years BC. This variety is called capsicum annuum and it is this species that is grown and cultivated today in a myriad of different forms. Chillies have spread all over the world and are equally central to the cuisines of Asia. India is the largest producer of chilli exports in the world.

Two really important facts are that not all chillies are hot and that they are very varied in flavour and texture and can impart a fantastic array of nuance to many different types of dishes. The heat in chillies comes from capsaicin, produced by the glands in the seed bearing part of the chilli. So it is not just the seeds that should be removed from chillies to modify the heat but also the seed sac that surrounds the seeds. However chillies are high in Vitamin C and capsaicin has been linked to providing benefits against certain cancers. The important thing to remember when handling hot chillies is to either wear rubber gloves or ensure that you wash your hands thoroughly after handling the chilli sac and seeds and keep your hands away from your eyes, nose and lips to avoid transferring any of the active ingredient, capsaicin. A few useful guidelines to help you become familiar with chillies are: usually the smaller the chilli the hotter it is, the wider the top of the chilli, the milder it is, and red chillies are sweeter than green.
Photo: Rob Corlett
The focus of this article is on the chillies of Mexico and to provide some insight into the complexity of flavour that they bring to dishes.. Unfortunately the limited Mexican menus of fast food restaurants in this country provide an overly commercialised snapshot of what is actually a sophisticated and subtle cuisine. Each region in Mexico grows its own chillies and therefore the tastes of regional cuisine are based in the different flavours imparted from their chillies. For example in the Sierra Mixe Mountains in Oaxaca, Mexico, chillies are grown in the particular soils of the area within the microclimate of the mountains, then dried using artisan methods that includes smoking over open wood fires using the firewood of the forests of that area. The Pasilla Oaxaquena chilli that results is totally unique in flavour.

Chillies can be used either fresh, preserved or dried. Chillies are easy to grow and they are producing fruit now in abundance. A local producer of chillies, Vertu Specialty Foods, supplies chillies to both supermarkets and restaurants Dried chillies can be found in many stores-usually without identifying the type of chilli. Asian markets stock dried chillies in abundance but the genuine chillies of Mexico are not so easily available. The Kaitia Fire brand is available in Collingwood Street Fresh Choice and a significant number of types of dried chillies can be bought on line through Mexifoods, such as Guajilla, Ancho, Chipotle,Pasilla and Mulato. Go to www.mexifoods.co.nz. They also stock a range of different chilli seeds. They will ship to you within a few days. The addition to your pantry will not disappoint you.
Mercado Central, Santiago Chile
There is a process for using dried chillies which normally starts with washing them and drying them thoroughly then dry roasting them in a hot dry pan. They should be turned once and heated just to release their fragrance. If they are burned they become bitter –so less is more. The chillies are then opened and seeds and seed sac discarded before softening the chillies in hot water. (keep a few of the seeds if you want to hot up the recipe). Add enough water to cover the chillies and bring the water to the boil. Take the pot off the heat and leave the chillies to soak for about 15 minutes. They will have softened and plumped up and are now ready to use.
As there are over 200 varieties of Mexican chillies there is a steep learning curve for the uninitiated. Here we will focus on a few varieties to get you started.


Photo: Rob Corlett

Jalepeno-These are triangular in shape with a blunt end. They are usually 5-7 cm long. They are often pickled and are used in many sauces. They are generally hot and eaten green.
Chipotle is dried red jalepeno. When the jalapenos turn a deep red and are the last fruit on the plant they are selected to make chipotles. They are wood smoked then fully dried. Other chipotle chillies are known as Morita and produced in Northern Mexico. Chipotle are usually fairly hot.

Anneheim grow to 15-20cm and are mild and sweet when red and ripe. They can be used either green or red and are excellent stuffed. In their green state the taste is more vegetal.Pablano/Ancho This chilli is the backbone of many sauces. When the pablano is dried it is called an ancho. It is the chilli most often stuffed. It is a mild chilli and most regularly grown in the state of Pueblo in Mexico. They grow to about 10-12 cm and have a long tapering point.

Habanero are the hottest of the hot and match well with tomatoes. They are small and lantern shaped. They have tropical fruit notes . They are not for the faint hearted.Serrano are about 5cm long with a slightly pointed tip. They are red when fully ripe but are usually used in their green state. It is a hot chilli.
Chile de Arbol is a cayenne hybrid and is generally around 6-7cm in length. It is hot even from its immature state.
Fireflame is the chilli that is often found in NZ supermarkets. It has a long tapering pod and a generally mild flavour.Guajillo is a thick fleshed chilli, shiny deep orange red with brown tones, it has a green tea flavour with berry tones and is a hot chilli. It is very commonly used in Mexico in many sauces.

Recipes
The secret to the taste of Mexican food are the salsas or sauces or side dishes that accompany dishes and the variety and combination of chillies used. Salsa Verde (green) ,Salsa Negra (black) and Salsa Roja (red) are examples of salsas that can accompany many different dishes, combining equally well with fish, chicken, pork or (cannellini or pinto) beans if you prefer a vegetarian option. Salsa martajada is a recipe shared by Brisa Garcia Pelayo, a lovely young Mexican woman living in Nelson. She owns a restaurant/ hotel in Chacala, Nayarit, Mexico with her mother and sister called Las Brisas. This salsa comes from her restaurant.

Brisa’s Salsa Martajada (a salsa roja)
Makes 1.5 litres of salsa.
2 chillies-Serrano or de Arbol- leave the seeds in for a hotter salsa or remove them for a milder salsa.
6 tomatoes
2 cloves of garlic
1 whole clove
½ red onion finely chopped
2 tbs of fresh coriander finely chopped
1 tsp of oregano
Salt and pepper
Char grill the tomatoes and chillies to flavour them-over a gas flame. Dont totally char them as you retain the skins. Put the tomatoes and chillies into a pot and add water to just cover. Simmer for 10 minutes. Once soft remove the chillies and blend with the garlic and oregano. Grind the cloves in a mortar and pestle. At the end add the tomatoes and blend until the tomatoes are roughly chopped. Let it rest until it is cool. Add the sliced onions and coriander. Mix and serve.

Avocado with Serrano chillies and Guajillo Salsa
Serves four
1 dried guajillo pepper
4 medium tomoatoes
2 cloves of garlic
2 limes
2 avocados
Iceberg lettuce leaves
Fresh coriander
Prepare the pepper as described in the story above.
Blacken tomatoes and garlic directly over a gas flame (directly on the element- you can do this with an electric element as well. Use tongs to turn them. Cool and then peel off the blackened skin. Put the tomatoes, garlic and softened and chopped guajillo chilli into a food processor and coarsely mix. Add the juice of a lime and salt to taste.
Crush the flesh of an avocado and add one chopped Serrano chilli, juice of a lime, and salt to taste.
Place a large lettuce leaf on a plate. Spoon several tablespoons of avocado mixture onto the leaf and top with a generous tablespoon of salsa. Sprinkle with plenty of fresh coriander.

Chicken Mole
This is an authentic recipe for chicken mole given to me many years ago in Los Angeles by a Mexican woman who had immigrated to America. It uses New Mexican chillies primarily.
4 whole cloves
½ tsp ground ginger
/2 tsp cumin seeds
1 tsp ground cinnamon
¾ tsp oregano
3 garlic cloves
Salt and pepper
2 Serrano chillies
10-15 dried New Mexican or Anneheim Chilli pods

Prepare the New Mexican Chillies following the directions earlier in the story. When soaked, food process until smooth and thick.
Finely chop the Serrano chillies. Dry roast the cloves, and cumin. Pound them in a mortar and pestle.. Mix all the other ingredients together with a ¼ cup of chicken stock to make a paste add the cloves and cumin. Carefully saute the paste in 2 tbs of oil. Be careful that it does not burn. Add the Serrano chillies and simmer until they are softened. Add the New Mexican chillies and 1 cup of chicken stock. Season to taste. Simmer gently for 15 minutes.
Meanwhile divide up a chicken into portions and bake in a moderate oven until tender and cooked. Drain off any fat from the pan and add the mole sauce and allow the sauce and chicken to blend together for 15-20 minutes. Keep in a warm place. Sprinkle with fresh coriander and serve with rice and other salsas of your choice. Excellent with fresh corn tortillas.

Little green cuisine machines

Photo: Rob Corlett

Slice a lime in half and the sharp, floral aroma hits the nose. Taste it, and the sour flavour hits the palette. It is an intense flavour that is significantly different to the lemons we are so familiar with in New Zealand.

Once you start to use limes in cooking, you will never go back. Add a squeeze of lime to sauces and dressings, and it will lift the flavour and add a special dimension to familiar dishes.

Lime juice and lime zest add flavour to so many dishes, and can also reduce the amount of salt you might otherwise use.

Limes are firmer than lemons to the touch, and the flesh is also firm.

In Mexico, they have a marvellous gadget called a lime press (these can be bought online through www.mexifoods.co.nz - or, if you are lucky enough to be able to go shopping at Moore Wilson Fresh in Wellington, they stock them there as well). Take a halved or quartered lime, cut slightly on the diagonal to release the juice from the juice sacs, place in the press and squeeze. It is a really effective method and extracts more juice than a regular squeezer. It is a good investment for lemons as well.

Limes are grown extensively in many parts of the world. They are a significant crop in India, Mexico, Egypt, the West Indies, the tropical Americas and the Pacific Islands. In New Zealand, they are primarily grown in the East Cape area around Gisborne.

The lime tree is more sensitive than the lemon tree. It does not like cold and thrives in a warm, moist climate.
Photo: Rob Corlett Limes on sale at Fairway Supermarket,NYC
In the top of the south, despite the climate, we have a commercial grower or two.

John Hicks of Mariri, trading as Vertu Speciality Foods, grows limes in tunnel houses to protect them from frost. He has over 100 Tahitian lime trees.

Debbie Campbell in Golden Bay has a seven-hectare organic piece of land called Bay Subtropical, where she is able to grow limes, other citrus fruits and avocados in a special microclimate that is frost-free. Limes can be purchased from her year-round.

There are two main types of limes cultivated today: the Tahitian lime, also known as the Persian lime (Citrus latifolia) and the Mexican, West Indian or key lime (Citrus aurantifolia).

The Mexican or key lime is smaller and seedier than the Tahitian lime and has higher acidity and a stronger aroma, as well as a thinner rind. The Tahitian lime has almost no seeds and is slightly sweeter in flavour.

The Mexican lime tree has thorns and is native to Southeast Asia. It made its way to the Americas and the Florida Keys, where the famous key lime pie originates from. Most of the commercial crop in New Zealand are Tahitian limes.

Both limes are actually yellow when fully ripe but are often picked in their green state.

The lime season in New Zealand is from March to September, and most of the limes in supermarkets before March will be imported, hence the high price tag. Local limes cost $4 to $10 a kilogram in season.

Photo: Rob Corlett

Terry Knight of Schnapp Dragon Distilleries in Golden Bay claims as much of the local crop as he can to make his Lime Liqueur - a delicious drop served straight, or on ice, or as a long drink with soda and a sprig of mint as a garnish. If you haven't tried it yet, it is a must. Visit him at the Nelson Saturday market and you might be lucky enough to score some of his lime essence - a byproduct of making the liqueur. This thick, sweet lime concentrate is a marvellous marinade for meat or fish and will give a salad dressing an extra kick.

Limes are fantastically versatile and make splendid desserts such as flans, tarts, mousses and sorbets. They can be substituted for vinegar or lemons in dressings and are a key ingredient in sauces in both Asian and Latin cooking. Use both the juice and the zest to make a perfect dipping sauce along with chilli and fish sauce.

Play around with the proportions of lime to other ingredients. Limes are also essential for a perfect margarita.

Photo:marion van Dijk Nelson Mail

Lime Tart
For crust:
300g plain flour
100g icing sugar
Zest of 2 limes
160g unsalted butter
2 to 3 eggs

For custard:
6 medium eggs
230g caster sugar
Zest of 2 limes
200ml freshly pressed lime juice
230ml cream
Icing sugar for garnish

Make the crust by mixing the icing sugar, flour and zest, crumbling these ingredients in a food processor or beating with an electric mixer until a crumb-like mixture forms. Add the beaten eggs until a paste is formed. Do not over-mix, or the pastry will become tough.

Rest the pastry for 30 minutes in the refrigerator, then roll it out on a floured bench. Roll the pastry back on the rolling pin, being gentle, as it is very delicate.

Using floured fingers, press the dough evenly into a 30cm fluted tart pan (3-4cm deep) with a removable base, lining the bottom and sides. Chill the shell until firm (about 30 minutes).

Preheat oven to 180 degrees Celsius. Line the shell with greaseproof paper or foil and fill it with pie weights or rice up to 2.5cm deep, but leaving the centre of the case free of weight. Bake it in the middle of the oven until the edge is pale golden (about 20 minutes).

Carefully remove the paper/foil and weights, and further bake the shell until its edge is golden and the bottom is pale golden (about 20 minutes more). Cool completely in a pan on a rack.

Reduce the oven temperature to 150C and make the custard. Mix the eggs, zest and sugar in a bowl with a whisk (do not beat) until the sugar is mixed. Add lime juice. Beat the cream lightly and add to the mixture. Whisk gently until it is well mixed.

Set the tart shell (still in its pan) on the oven rack and pour in three-quarters of the custard mixture. Carefully put the tart in the middle of the oven and pour the remaining custard into the shell with a small cup. Bake until the custard is set (about one hour). Cool the tart completely in the tart pan on a rack, then chill until cold (at least two hours).

The tart shell can be baked three days ahead.

Lime and Mint Dressing
2 cloves garlic, mashed or finely chopped
1 fresh red chilli, medium hot
2 Tbsp chopped mint or coriander
Juice and zest of 3 limes
1 Tbsp raw sugar or Terry's lime essence (see main article)
6 Tbsp good-quality olive oil
Salt to taste

Mix all the ingredients together thoroughly and serve. Drizzle over fish, chicken or lamb. You can substitute coriander for the mint.

Margaritas
For 4 people
Juice of 8 limes
8 shots of tequila
6 shots of Cointreau
Lots of ice

Load a big jug with ice and pour in the tequila and Cointreau. Add the lime juice and stir. Salt the rim of four margarita glasses by pouring salt on to a bread and butter plate, running a cut lime around the surface of the rim and then crunching the rim into the salt until it is coated. Serve the margaritas with a slice of lime floating in the drink.

Fresh essentials for every cook

Possibly the single most fascinating aspect of flavour in food is the addition of herbs or spices.

They are perfect for adding nuance to meat and vegetable dishes. Every cook who wants to learn to develop flavour in their food should learn about herbs.

Fresh herbs are best for intensity of flavour, and growing your own is the best option. Failing that, buy them fresh, and if all else fails, buy small amounts of dried herbs. Most herbs lose their aroma and flavour quite quickly once dried.

Experiment using fresh herbs if they are new to you - you will be amazed at the results in the dishes you create.

The aromatics of fresh basil in particular, which is so abundant at this time of year, can never be reproduced in the dried form.

A number of herbs are essential for the herb garden or the pantry cupboard. These are basil, oregano, marjoram, rosemary, thyme, chives, tarragon, chervil, parsley (preferably Italian flat leaf), sage, coriander, mint, fennel and dill.

A single herb can sometimes come in different varieties. Thyme, for example, has both lemon and orange-scented varieties, which add additional dimensions to dishes alongside the specific herb flavour.

Each herb has a specific aroma and flavour, and the best way to learn about them is to experiment with quantities and combinations, raw and cooked, until you find the mix that works for you.

Use chives to provide a mild onion flavour. Garlic chives are also readily available. Regular chives and the garlic-flavoured variety are wonderful with egg and potato dishes.

Fennel and dill provide an anise flavour. Fennel combines brilliantly with lamb, fish and tomatoes, and the plant produces seeds that are used as a spice. Dill is great with eggs and fish.

Marjoram and oregano are wonderful in Italian dishes, particularly tomato-based dishes, and are excellent combined with garlic, pepper and salt as a rub or marinade for beef.

Vietnamese mint is a strong, pungent mint used mostly in southeast Asian recipes.

Parsley can be used in so many ways, raw and cooked, and combines extremely well with other herbs such as thyme, sage, oregano and basil.

Rosemary is a strong herb and should be used sparingly. The leaves are highly aromatic, but combine well with thyme. Try pounding a sprig or two of lemon thyme with half a dozen small leaves of rosemary, mixed with sea salt and black pepper, then rub it into a fish such as turbot before baking in the oven.

Sage is another strong herb that should be used sparingly. It combines very well with chicken or pork. Gently fry sage leaves in good-quality extra virgin olive oil, and the taste changes to something more delicate. The crispy leaves can be tossed on top of potato dishes or salads.

French tarragon is another herb with a delicate anise flavour, and is one of the classic herbs of French cuisine. It combines with chicken, fish and meat dishes and is an essential ingredient in bearnaise sauce - the perfect accompaniment to a steak (see recipe below).

Chervil is also one of the classic French herbs, with a delicate taste of both parsley and tarragon.

Coriander is a strong herb that you either love or hate, but is essential to Asian and Latin cooking. The plant also grows seeds that are used as a spice. Add it to soups and vegetable, meat, bean and rice dishes. It makes a wonderful chutney for Indian dishes and is a key ingredient in salsas from Mexico. It has strong spice notes and combines very well with chillis.

Last but not least in this list is basil - another anise-flavoured herb, which also has lots of floral aspects to its flavour. It is essential to Italian cuisine and is wonderful raw and in pesto. It should be added to dishes later in the cooking process to get the full impact of its flavour.

The following recipes provide some guidelines to the ways in which you can use herbs.

Bearnaise sauce
4-5 sprigs of fresh tarragon or 2 tbs of dried tarragon (must be French tarragon - not Russian, which does not have the same flavour or aroma) and the same quantities of chervil
2 shallots, finely chopped
1/2 cup of tarragon vinegar or white vinegar
1/4 cup of white wine

Combine in a saucepan and simmer gently to reduce to 1/8 cup or thereabouts. Sieve the mixture and cool.

In the top of a double boiler placed over simmering water (not boiling), add the reduced tarragon mixture. Add two egg yolks, one at a time, and whisk until smooth. Slowly add 250g of softened butter in small amounts, whisking each piece into the egg mixture. Continue whisking until you have a smooth, thickened mixture. Serve with your favourite steak.

Pesto
The idea of pesto is to combine large quantities of fresh herb - usually basil - with smaller quantities of nuts, parmesan cheese and garlic, mixed to a paste with good-quality oil.

These are the basic rules, but pesto can be made with lots of different herbs, and different nuts can be used to get different flavours. The best way is to experiment, which is also a wonderful way to become confident with using herbs.

4 cups fresh basil, washed and dried (Substitute with Italian parsley when basil isn't available, or add some thyme, sage and marjoram for a different flavour)
1/2 cup toasted pine nuts - or use almonds or hazelnuts
1/2 cup grated parmesan cheese
1 cup olive oil (use rice brain oil if you want a lighter mix)
3 cloves garlic
Salt and freshly ground pepper (use half a fresh chilli if you want a spicier mix)

Blend the mixture in a food processor to a smooth texture. Serve with many different dishes. This is great with pasta.

photo: Nelson Mail

Herb stuffing with roast chicken or pork or lamb

Make breadcrumbs from a day-old loaf of ciabatta or good-quality white bread, to make 2 cups.

Finely dice a medium red or yellow onion and saute gently in about 1/2 cup of olive oil and butter (or just butter) until soft. Chop lots of Italian parsley to make at least 3/4 cup - add 10 sprigs of thyme, 10 leaves of sage, a handful of basil and marjoram. Finely chop it all and add to the breadcrumbs and onion. Season to taste. The mixture should hold together without being sticky. It should be a bright green colour. Stuff inside a chicken or rolled pork or boned-out leg of lamb.

Coriander chutney

This is excellent with Indian food but is also a great accompaniment to chicken or vegetable dishes.

In a food processor, mix 2 cups of fresh coriander, 1/2 cup of mint (regular or Vietnamese), 1/4 cup of desiccated coconut, 2 cloves of garlic, 1 hot chilli, 1/4 cup of roasted peanuts, and vegetable oil to mix. Process until smooth.

Crab 'em and eat 'em

photo Nelson Mail

Some things you may not know about crabs are that they walk sideways and can be found everywhere in the world. There are somewhere between 5000 to 7000 species of them, depending on which authority on the subject you read. They can be found in all the oceans of the world, as well as in fresh water and even on the land, particularly in tropical regions.

Crab make up 20 per cent of all marine crustaceans caught and farmed worldwide, with well over 1 million tonnes consumed annually.

As a result of their occurrence in so many places, they feature in the cuisine of many countries. Some crab is eaten whole, shell and all, such as soft-shell crab, while for other crab it is the claws and legs that are mainly eaten, along with as much meat as can be extracted under the shell.

Paddle crab is the species found in New Zealand on sandy beaches, estuaries and harbours. They are mostly active at night, when they move to tidal areas to feed. Females moult (hence soft-shell crab) and can mate only when in this state.

Local crab fishermen know how to avoid the moulting crab, as they are soft shelled in different areas at different times.

The crab fishery is managed in New Zealand by strict quotas and, normally, paddle crab is caught using baited traps or pots.

If you love the taste of crab or want to experiment, here is a daring method for catching them without a pot or trap.

Go to a beach such as Rabbit Island, or Torrent Bay or Awaroa in the Abel Tasman, at low tide, especially at a spring tide. Take a bucket and a rake and, with bare feet, walk out in the tide to the point where the sand becomes soft and squelchy under your feet (this may mean being up to the top of your legs in water - you need to have bare feet because you need to be able to feel the texture of the sand).

On reaching sand of the right texture, start raking in front of you. The crab will grab a hold of the rake with its claws. Swiftly lift the rake with crab attached and toss the crab into your bucket. Voila!

Other than this method, you need to rely on Guytons or supermarkets to stock crab for you.

Crab is caught commercially in the Nelson bays area throughout the year. Aqua Fresh (a local company) catches between 18 and 23 tonnes of crab a year and supplies supermarkets throughout New Zealand.

This means that crab could be available to us all in Nelson via our local supermarkets pretty much constantly, except when bad weather affects the catch. So it is up to us as consumers to let our supermarkets know that we want crab - it is there for the taking.

Currently, Nelson suppliers are requesting only limited orders, so our local crab travels around the country.

Other than in the whole, fresh, living form, you can obtain them whole, fresh and cooked, as fresh diced meat, as frozen diced meat and canned.

A crab worth eating will have its legs intact and will feel heavy. When you buy fresh crab, the legs should be moving, and if it is cooked, the legs should not be limp.

Crab is a great source of protein and has lots of omega-3 fatty acids, B vitamins and minerals. So it is well worth mastering the art of extracting the flesh from the shells.

To prepare crab meat, follow these steps. Learning how to do this will make your experience of crab much easier.

• First, kill the crab by either forcing a sharp knife through the indented spot just above the tail flap on its underside - this kills the crab instantly -
  
  or by putting it in boiling water.
• Cook it by boiling it for 10 minutes in a small amount of water. Rinse in cold water.
• Hold the back legs and with the crab facing you, lift the shell off. Then remove the gills.
• To extract the flesh, cut the crab in half with a sharp knife. Separate out the legs, claws and body and carefully extract the meat from each part of the body.

The flesh of the paddle crab is white, crisp, moist and delicious. It combines brilliantly with chilli and there are many recipes for chilli crab.
A recipe follows, along with another peppery version, salt and pepper crab. Crab cakes are also delicious and can be made using either fresh or canned crab.

Crab cakes
Ingredients:
500g of crab meat
1 red or green pepper
1 small red chilli
zest of 1 lime
1 egg, beaten
1/4 cup of coconut, freshly grated or dried
1 tbsp of chickpea flour
a handful of chopped coriander or Italian parsley Combine the crab meat, diced peppers, lime zest, coconut, egg, flour and herbs, season with salt and shape into cakes. Chill for an hour to help them keep their shape.

Fry in a little hot oil until they are golden brown. Serve with a sauce made of 200ml of good-quality coconut milk, 3-4 tbsp of sweet chilli sauce, 1 kaffir lime leaf finely chopped, juice from a lime, two tsp of fish sauce and fresh coriander or parsley. Combine all the ingredients and gently simmer until well combined.

Salt and pepper crab
Ingredients:
1 crab per person, for up to six
50g of sea salt
50g of black peppercorns
6 spring onions
1 litre of oil

Pound the salt and pepper together in a mortar until fine.

Kill the crab and then remove the shell and wash thoroughly. Cut into quarters. Heat the oil in a wok until very hot and add the quartered crab. Fry for at least 5 minutes. Remove and drain. Remove the oil from the wok except for a little to refry the crab pieces along with a good spoonful of the salt and pepper mixture and the spring onions chopped finely. Fry until the crab is golden brown. Drain again. Serve with lots of fresh lime juice.

Chilli crab
Ingredients:
4 cloves of garlic
4 hot chillies with the seeds (try using one chipotle chilli in this mix for an extra smoky flavour)
1 red onion
3-4 sprigs of mint
2 tbsp fish sauce
1 crab per person, for up to six

120g of coconut milkIn a food processor, blend the first five ingredients to make a paste. Heat a wok and add 2 tbsp of olive oil, add the paste and stir for a few minutes. Add quartered crab meat (as per the recipe for salt and pepper crab) and stir fry until the crab has turned orange. This will take 6-8 minutes, depending on the size of the crab. Stir in the coconut milk and serve immediately the milk has warmed through.

The fruit of love

Photo: Rob Corlett

It looks all knobbly and gnarly, it's inedible when raw and it has long since been ripped out of most orchards. So why should we love the quince? Elizabeth Latham has the answer.

Those of us lucky enough to have a quince tree in our garden, or to have friends or neighbours who do (thank you Graham and Eileen Thawley), will know about the versatility and fragrance of the ancient yellow fruit.

Called the golden apple and once revered as the fruit of love, adored by the Greeks and Romans and used as a medicine for coughs in the Middle East, it has been much neglected in recent times in our part of the world. Even chopped out of orchard plots, it is now beginning to have a renaissance in terms of appreciation and use.

It is not a fruit to eat raw, although in this state it has a glorious fragrance and it makes an excellent room deodoriser should you need one.

Quinces are a food of Europe and trees can be found everywhere in the world that has a Mediterranean climate.

Quince paste is a staple in Europe and each country has its own name for it. In Spanish-speaking countries it is known as membrillo, and in France it is called cotignac.

Quince paste is outstanding with a strong cheese such as stilton or gorgonzola yet equally delicious with brie or a tasty cheddar. You can heat it and add spices to it, such as cinnamon or cloves, and use it as a marinade for pork or chicken.

Quinces are related to both apples and pears and should be picked as they turn from green to bright yellow. The fruit does not soften as it ripens and if it is soft, it is most likely rotten.

The raw fruit is astringent and hard, so cooking is essential. When it is cooked, the quince still has a strong perfume and is delicious added in small quantities to any dish containing apples and pears. When raw, particularly, the fruit has a gritty texture that is still a feature of it when cooked.

Once cooked, it changes to a deep ruby red. This colour change comes about from the tannins in the fruit breaking down during cooking and bonding with oxygen chemicals to form anthocyanins, the plant pigments that cause fruit to be red. Magic!

Photo: Nelson Mail

QUINCE JELLY

2kg of washed quinces
Sugar
Cold water

1. Roughly chop quinces and place in a large pot. Just cover them with cold water.
2. Bring to the boil and simmer until the fruit is soft. Cool.
3. Place pulp in two layers of muslin set over a bowl. Leave hanging for about four hours.
4. Measure or weigh the quince juice and pour the measured juice into a large pot.
5. Add an equal amount of sugar to juice, ie, for every cup of juice, add a cup of sugar.
6. Cook over a low heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar. When the sugar has dissolved, bring the syrup to the boil. Boil rapidly and continue to boil until set.
7. The setting point will vary. To test, put a spoonful of the mixture onto a chilled saucer and cool. The surface should set. Push it gently and if it wrinkles, it is ready.
8. Pour into sterilised, warm jars and seal tightly.

Photo: Marion van Dijk Nelson Mail


QUINCE PASTE OR MEMBRILLO
This Spanish recipe has a twist that makes it just a little more special than regular quince paste.

2 kg of quince, washed, peeled, cored, roughly chopped
1 vanilla pod, split
2 strips of lemon peel without the pith
3 Tbsp lemon juice

1. About 4 cups of sugarPlace quince pieces in a large pot and cover with water. Add the vanilla pod and lemon peel and bring to a boil. Reduce to a simmer, cover, and cook the quince for 30 to 40 minutes.
2. Strain the water from the quince and discard the vanilla pod.
3. Puree the quince pieces in a food processor. Weigh the quince puree. You will need to use the same amount of sugar.
4. Return the quince puree to the large pan. Slowly heat and add the sugar. Stir with a long wooden spoon until the sugar has completely dissolved. Add the lemon juice.
5. Continue to cook over a low heat, stirring occasionally, for about 1 1/2 hours, until the quince paste is thick and a deep orange-pink colour. Watch yourself, as the mixture pops and you can easily burn yourself.
6. Preheat oven to about 50 degrees Celsius. Line a baking pan with greased baking paper. Pour the cooked quince paste into the baking pan and place in the oven for about an hour to help it dry. Remove from oven and let cool.
7. To serve, cut into squares or wedges. Store by wrapping in foil or plastic wrap, and keep in the refrigerator.
8. Add quince paste to just about anything.
9. Quince paste adds a tangy sweetness to sauces. It is particularly delicious with meats such as pork and duck. It is equally delicious with salmon. Add a tablespoon at a time and taste between spoonfuls. People will wonder what that secret flavour element is!

QUINCE AIOLI
Use this as an accompaniment to meat but also try it alongside a potato frittata.

250g quince paste
1 crushed clove of garlic
15ml rice bran oil
Salt and pepper
Lemon juice

1. Blend the paste and garlic in a food processor and slowly drizzle in the oil, blending continuously. Add salt, freshly ground black pepper and lemon juice to taste.

SLOW-COOKED QUINCE
Serves 4

2 medium quince
2/3 cup sugar
2/3 cup water
1 clove
1 Tbsp lemon juice
1 apple

1. Preheat oven to 120degC.
2. Peel and halve the quince. Carefully core the quince halves. Keep all the peel and trimmings. Combine the sugar, water, clove and lemon juice in a covered shallow baking dish. Whisk to dissolve the sugar. Add the quince halves, cut side down, and the trimmings. Coarsely grate a peeled apple over the quince halves. This will prevent the quince from drying out while baking.
3. Cover and bake for 5 to 7 hours until the fruit softens and turns pink or possibly even bright red! Serve with lashings of whipped cream.

Titi a la Fleur

For those intrigued by muttonbird but too timid to try it, Elizabeth Latham offers some encouragement to indulge in the pleasures of a deep-south delicacy.

If you enjoy sardines, anchovies and tuna then you will adore muttonbird. If you have been afraid to try it, it's time to take the leap.

It is muttonbird season now and once you know how to cook it, it will be a delicacy that you will embrace.

The English name muttonbird, given to titi, appears to have arisen from early-settler accounts in Norfolk Island where the meat was likened to mutton - not an association I would make, certainly not in terms of taste.

Titi is a bird and therefore has the flesh of a bird but the taste of fish, from the prestigious diet of fish, squid and shrimp-like krill that it feasts on during its migration from the breeding grounds of the southern hemisphere to the feeding grounds of the northern hemisphere and back again.

Titi is a seabird, the sooty shearwater, to be precise - a petrel hunted by humans for thousands of years. The harvesting of them is the domain of Rakiura Maori from Stewart Island. They have the rights to gather titi from the 36 islands known as the Titi islands, near Stewart Island. The season is from April 1 to May 21.

The sooty shearwater population worldwide is estimated at around 50 million (some accounts say 20 million, others 40 to 60 million) and they breed in New Zealand, Australia, South America and South Africa. New Zealand's breeding colony has an estimated five million pairs in 80 breeding colonies. There are claims of a diminishing population from climate change and birds becoming caught in the nets of commercial fishing operations, however the gathering of titi remains an annual ritual in the far south of this country.

Titi is available in retail outlets throughout New Zealand with about 250,000 birds harvested each year.

Young birds are harvested just as they are about to fledge. They are collected from burrows, plucked and often preserved in salt.

Guytons stock titi from the end of April. They sell for about $10 a bird. The birds are brined and will keep in this state for up to a year. The longer they spend in the brine the saltier they are and the longer the preparation time.

If you buy titi soon, you will only need to "wash" them a few times. If you are buying them later in the year you will need to wash them four to five times to get the salt level low enough to enjoy them.

Muttonbird isn't often served in restaurants but there is one place in the country you can go to and find titi regularly on the menu.

If you are lucky enough to be passing through Otago and you want a special treat, stop in Moeraki, a quintessential fishing village on the Pacific coast, and go to Fleur's Place.

Photo:Rob Corlett

Here you can experience cultural tourism at its best and be a guest of the amazing Fleur Sullivan. Fishermen come ashore in their boats right next to the restaurant and Fleur picks the fish only a few hours before it arrives on your plate. She also sources titi and this is her recipe - from her new book, Fleur's Place.

The recipe also explains how to prepare the bird. Later this year Fleur will be at NMIT with her chef, Simon Peacock, to prepare a degustation dinner based on regional seasonal food.

MUTTONBIRD WITH MAORI POTATOES AND SPINACH
2 salted muttonbirds
10 small Maori potatoes (or regular potatoes)
2 handfuls of native NZ spinach (or regular spinach)

• Place the muttonbirds in a large pot and cover with cold water. Slowly bring to the boil and allow to simmer for a couple of minutes.
• Taste the water. If it is overly salty, drain, refill with fresh cold water and repeat the process. The number of times you have to do this will depend on the amount of time the titi have been in brine.
• When the birds pass the salt test, simmer until the leg bone begins to give away from the flesh.
• Remove from the water and cool.
• Boil the potatoes until just tender. Place these in a roasting pan and place the boiled mutton bird on top.
• Grill or roast on a high heat until the skin begins to crisp and the potatoes roast in the mutton bird fat.
• Soften the spinach in the remaining fat just before serving and serve the dish with spinach oil (recipe follows).

SPINACH OIL
1 bunch of spinach, washed
1 bunch of sorrel leaves, washed
100ml sesame oil
500ml of olive oil
1 lemon, juiced

• Salt and pepper In a food processor, place the spinach and sorrel and process until smooth. Drizzle in both oils, add the lemon juice and season. Pass through a sieve and serve surrounding the mutton bird.

PHILLIP'S MUTTONBIRD MASH
This is a recipe that extends the flavour of muttonbird and allows a larger number of people to enjoy the experience. For 4 to 6 people.

500g swedes and potatoes for the mash
1-2 mutton birds

• Prepare the mutton bird as described in the Fleur recipe. Reserve the water from the last boil of the titi. After boiling the bird, open it up so it can be put flat under the grill. Grill until the skin turns golden. Remove the skin from the bird and reserve. When the bird has cooled enough to handle, cut the flesh from the bones and shred into small pieces.
• Meanwhile boil the swede and potato in the water from the titi. When cooked, mash with butter and milk and pepper to taste (you shouldn't need any salt).
• Mix the shredded titi through the mash. Serve on individual plates with watercress tossed in olive oil and lemon juice. Add a little crisp skin to each plate.
• A true entree from Aotearoa New Zealand.