Garlic

It is hard to imagine cooking without garlic, it is so central to the flavour of so many dishes, even though in some parts of the world it is avoided because of its potent qualities.

In some religions it is not favoured because it warms and stimulates the body and is said to increase desires. For others this might be a benefit.

Garlic is an allium plant, like onions, shallots, leeks and chives; allium sativum to be exact. It has been used throughout recorded history by people in many different parts of the world. It is produced everywhere and has a history as a culinary and medicinal plant that includes such claims to fame as being able to ward off demons and vampires, probably arising from its antibacterial and antiparasitic properties and its alleged powers as a preventative medicine.

Crushed raw garlic yields allicin, an antibiotic and antifungal compound. It also has antiviral properties and there are many claims of a range of health benefits particularly in fighting throat infections as well as cardiovascular benefits. It contains B and C vitamins, calcium iron and a range of minerals: a veritable trove of potent pluses.

Sulphur compounds in garlic metabolise and form allyl methyl sulphide that passes into the blood and is carried to the lungs and skin and then excreted. Hence, garlic gets the name "stinking rose" – stinking for the smell and rose for all the positives garlic brings to us.

Plant garlic on the shortest day and harvest on the longest is the golden rule. For those of us who have planned our planting and harvest well enough, there should now be a store of succulent bulbs of garlic drying slowly, ready to be plaited and displayed with pride, used throughout the months to come in a myriad of dishes.

Garlic should be stored warm and dry, around 18-20 degrees Celsius. It will keep for months. You do not need to refrigerate it.

My recommendation is that you avoid prepared garlic that has been pre-peeled and stored in oil, as garlic stored in oil, if not treated, can harbour botulism. Why bother with this when you can simply peel and use a fresh clove at a time without any concerns about safety?

It is a pivotal ingredient in in many of the world's cuisines, and the taste softens hugely in the cooking process. When using raw garlic in recipes don't overdo it. Two or three cloves of garlic are ample in dishes requiring raw garlic, such as pesto or aioli, and one clove is all you need in a salad dressing. You can dramatically increase the number of cloves when you are cooking them, and using a whole head of garlic in some dishes is not too much.
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Try the following method for peeling garlic. Remove the garlic cloves from the bulb. Cut off the base of the clove with a sharp knife. Lie the clove on a chopping board and with the broad side of a large knife gently squash the clove. Don't squash to hard or you will obliterate the clove. The skin falls away to be easily pulled away. It can then be sliced and cooked in the dish of your choice.

If you don't have one, buy a garlic press for making salad dressings. It squeezes the garlic and spreads the flavour and juices into the dressings.

The recipes that include garlic are endless. Here are some that use garlic in different ways, to increase your repertoire for using this fabulous vegetable.

WHITE BEANS WITH THYME AND GARLIC

This will serve 4-6 people. It is a great accompaniment to lamb dishes or chicken and can be served hot or cool.

200g dried haricot beans
A bulb of garlic
Large bunch of fresh thyme

Soak the beans overnight in plenty of cold water.

Drain them, place in a large pot and cover with fresh water – two to three times as much water as beans in the pot. Bring to the boil and then turn down to simmer. Add the whole head of garlic, removing any excess loose skin first. Add a large bunch of fresh thyme.

Leave the lid of the pot off slightly to allow steam to escape and to prevent it from boiling over. Simmer until the beans are tender. If the water evaporates to the level of the beans before they are tender, add some vegetable stock to increase the level of liquid. You want to have a little juice left over when the cooking is complete. This process should take about an hour.

Before serving, squash the head of garlic against the side of the pot with a large wooden spoon to extract all the soft garlic from the cloves. Remove the squashed garlic head and the stalks of the thyme.

Season to taste with salt and pepper and add 3-4 Tbsps of extra virgin olive oil.

ROASTED GARLIC

Take one whole head of garlic and remove any loose excess skins. Wrap it in a piece of tinfoil so it is completely enclosed. Drizzle over extra virgin olive oil – enough to lightly coat the garlic. Wrap up in the tinfoil. Bake in a moderate oven, around 150C, for about 45 minutes.

When the garlic is cool enough to handle, hold the bulb upside down and squeeze the garlic out of each clove into a small bowl. Use the garlic to make garlic mashed potatoes, or mix with a little olive oil and spread on some fresh ciabatta bread.

GARLIC MASHED POTATOES

Photo:Marion van Dijk
For four people, cook six medium agria potatoes in well salted water until they are tender.

Drain and mash well with a hand-held potato masher. Then using an electric beater beat the potatoes while slowly adding warm milk to make a light and fluffy mash. Add the squeezed roasted garlic, salt and lots of freshly ground black pepper. Serve with whatever you desire.

MINA'S TRUE ITALIAN SAUCE

This recipe has been passed down from my children's New York Italian great grandmother, Mina. It is the perfect accompaniment to any fresh or dried pasta. Serve with lots of freshly grated parmesan cheese. It is simple and perfectly delicious.

8-10 cloves of garlic peeled and thinly sliced across the clove
3 Tbsps of extra virgin olive oil
4 cans of best quality Italian tomatoes or 1.5kg of fresh Italian tomatoes
A big bunch of fresh basil and oregano or 1 Tbsps each of dried oregano and basil
Salt and lots of freshly ground black pepper
1 Tbsps of raw sugar

Saute the garlic in the olive oil until golden. Quickly add the tomatoes to make sure you don't overcook the garlic. Add the herbs and seasoning and simmer gently for about 45 minutes.

AIOLI

This is garlic mayonnaise. It can be served with cold vegetables, cold meat or fish, spread on bread instead of butter to make sandwiches, or to make the best potato salad.

2 egg yolks
2 cloves of garlic, chopped
1 tsp of mustard
2 Tbsps of lemon or lime juice
200mls of oil – use half of olive oil and half vegetable oil
Salt and pepper

Place the egg yolks, garlic, mustard and 1 Tbsp of oil in a food processor and pulse until well integrated. Slowly add the rest of the oil with the motor running until the mixture is thick and creamy. Add the salt and pepper and lemon/lime juice.

Scallops in the bay, fennel in the field

Photo: Rob Corlett


Scallops are a rich and delicious shellfish that are sought after as a menu item when they are in season. They are culinary regulars in both Asian and Western cuisine and are prized in many cultures around the world. We regard them as quite commonplace in New Zealand, but in parts of Europe they are more scarce and expensive treasures.

They are remarkably versatile, combine extremely well with a range of flavours and can be enjoyed in many ways - raw on the shell (preferably on the side of a boat out in the bay), in sashimi, lightly sauteed with very little to adorn them, to more complex recipes involving wine and cheeses in classic recipes such as Scallops Mornay.

The key to cooking, as with any fish, is to not overcook them. A perfectly cooked scallop should still be slightly translucent in the centre.

A scallop is a bivalve (two shells) with one flat shell and one concave shell. The adductor muscle (the white meat) is used to open and close the shell. This white meat is the part that is called the scallop in culinary terms, along with the orange roe. (A great cooking hint about roe is that it can be used to thicken a sauce - just crush the roe into the poaching liquid and whisk, and the sauce will thicken). Interestingly, in North America the roe is taken from the scallop muscle and only the white part of the scallop is sold.

Scallops, like all shellfish, are an excellent source of Omega 3, an essential fatty acid that lowers cholesterol and aids circulation.

Scallops can be sourced all around New Zealand. Locally, the situation is a bit grim, with availability of scallops in Tasman Bay at dramatically low levels. People may not be aware that our scallop beds are dying and that there has been no commercial fishing in the bay for five years. Commercial supply is still viable in both Golden Bay and the Marlborough Sounds, and recreational fishers can still find some scallops in Tasman Bay, with adjacent areas still producing a good supply in the season from November to July. A recent article in The Nelson Mail featured recreational fishermen in Golden Bay who talked about the abundance of scallops there and the ease of catching them.

As mentioned earlier, scallops mix very well with a variety of flavours, and they taste particularly fabulous combined with the mild anise flavour of fennel.

Florence fennel or finocchio is an essential Italian herb (and vegetable) that has been grown and eaten in Italy forever but has only recently become available in New Zealand. It is similar to celery in many ways but has a wonderful anise flavour that adds so much to dishes. It can be found at Nelson City Fresh Choice and sometimes at New World. It can also be bought direct from Finocchio Farms (www.finocchifarm.co.nz). Fennel can be eaten raw in salads (sliced finely) or braised or sauteed (chopped into four pieces or more, depending on the size) and it is delicious chargrilled on the barbecue. Normally, it comes with some of the wispy herb on top, which can be chopped and added to whatever you are cooking. It has a delicious anise flavour, and this can be enhanced by adding some fennel seeds or a splash or two of pernod to the dish to give a more dramatic anise flavour. It is a great vegetable to experiment with if you haven't done so.

Three recipes follow that give you the opportunity to try this great combination of flavours and textures.

Seared Scallops with Fennel Puree and Citrus
Serves 5
250g fennel bulb
100g white onion
25 scallops
2 1/2 lemons
2 oranges in segments
2 limes in segments
150ml extra virgin olive oil
Salt and black pepper
Trim the fennel bulb and finely slice. Saute diced white onion and fennel bulb. Add lemon juice and a little water, cover and cook over a low heat until soft. Cool and puree in a blender or food processor with a little olive oil. The mixture should not be too runny; it needs to be able to be mounded on the plate when served.
Cut the limes, lemons and oranges into segments.
Make a dressing with equal parts olive oil and lemon juice; add salt and pepper to taste.
Sear the scallops in a hot pan with a little oil. The scallops should be golden on the outside and slightly translucent in the middle this will depend on the size of the scallop (generally about 1-2 minutes each side).
Warm the puree and place five spoonfuls of it on each plate. Top each mound with a scallop. Arrange segments neatly around the plate. Dress with the citrus dressing and garnish with some of the whispy fennel leaves from the top of the bulb.

Grilled Scallops and Fennel with Lime Pernod Dressing
Serves 3

1 large fennel bulb (or 2 smaller bulbs)
Slice the fennel bulb lengthwise into four portions. Lightly brush with olive oil and salt and pepper. Grill on the barbecue until it softens slightly and is well marked by the charcoal but is still slightly crisp.

15 scallops
Grill the scallops on the barbecue or in a pan for 1-2 minutes on each side.

Dressing
3 tbsp olive oil
1 tbsp lime juice
1 tsp pernod
1 tsp chilli flakes
Sea salt
Combine the ingredients and mix well.
Put the fennel on the plate first, add the scallops on top and pour the dressing over the top. Garnish with either fresh tarragon or parsley.

Lil's Pasta with Fennel, Prawn and Scallop Sauce
Serves 4
2 cloves garlic
2 medium-sized fennel bulbs
1 red onion
3 cans of Italian tomatoes
1 cup white wine
3 tbsp each fresh basil and oregano
1 tbsp toasted fennel seeds
1 cup olive oil
1 tsp Dijon mustard
Salt and black pepper
2 tsp raw sugar
20 scallops, 12 raw prawns (either in the shell or shelled)
400g fresh linguini pasta
Saute finely sliced fennel, onion and garlic in the olive oil until softened and turning slightly golden. Add the tomatoes, fennel seed, oregano and basil, mustard, sugar and salt and pepper. Simmer gently for about 30 minutes until the ingredients are well incorporated.
Cook the pasta until al dente. Add the prawns to the sauce and cook through. Add the scallops and cook until done just a few minutes, depending on the size of the scallops. Drain the pasta and serve with the seafood sauce. Add parmesan cheese to taste.