Artichokes

Photo: marion van dijk
Just as we boast about Ohakune as being the carrot capital of the world, with its main street adorned with a mammoth carrot, so is Castroville, California, the artichoke capital of the world, with a 20-foot (six-metre) concrete artichoke creation.

The tiny town is also steeped in the mythology of Norma Jean Baker, who was crowned the first Artichoke Queen in 1947. Norma Jean went on to become screen legend Marilyn Monroe and may have even considered her dalliance with artichokes a pivotal point in her career.

My dalliance with artichokes began when I lived in California, where the annual artichoke season is a much-heralded event in the seasonal calendar.

There, the artichoke takes centre stage, and they are eaten in many different ways, from steamed whole to roasted whole, to artichoke hearts deep fried or marinated artichokes hearts chargrilled or plain.

They grow abundantly in the climate of the Pacific northwest from early spring. They also grow well in New Zealand, and even though they are a Mediterranean vegetable, they thrive in a temperate climate.

They are just coming into season now and Brett Ferretti from Grown in Hope produces a fantastic local crop that can be found at the Saturday market or at Richmond or Collingwood St Fresh Choice.

You may even have your own plant or two, in which case they will be budding now.

Artichokes are good for you as well. They are a natural diuretic, contain folic acid, potassium and magnesium and are a good source of dietary fibre.

For those of you who may not be familiar with the globe artichoke (Cynara scolymus), it is a herbaceous perennial and a member of the thistle family. The flowerhead of the plant is what you eat and the head is formed with many overlapping bracts or leaves.

The artichoke is mostly eaten fresh with the whole head being steamed, or alternatively and definitely more laboriously, the majority of the leaves can be torn off to expose the heart and the heart is then steamed, or if you are Italian, roasted, braised or grilled in many combinations, but with garlic and olive oil being essential.

The hearts can also be marinated and preserved and are readily available in supermarkets.

HOW TO PREPARE AND EAT ARTICHOKES
Photo: Marion van Dijk

To prepare whole artichokes, first slice off the top of the artichoke using a serrated edged knife. Slice off the top five centimetres to get rid of the prickly tops of the leaves and to expose the centre of the flowerhead. You can also snip off the points of the remaining leaves to get rid of any remaining prickly offenders.

Slice off the stalk, so that the artichoke can sit flat. You can cook the trimmed stalk as well, so don't throw it out. The artichoke is now ready for cooking. If you are not going to immediately cook it, rub any cut surfaces with lemon.

Eating whole steamed artichokes is a sensuous affair, with each leaf plucked off the head and dipped in melted butter or extra-virgin olive oil or a garlic aioli. Pluck and dip each leaf, pulling the flesh from the leaf tip through your teeth.

Once all the leaves are gone, you reach the hairy choke. The hairy bit protects the delicate heart beneath. Remove all the choke carefully with the edge of a teaspoon or a knife and then dip the jewel of a heart into a dip and savour the taste. Truly delectable.

The alternative to all that plucking and dipping, and a lot less messy in the eating, is to pare the artichoke down to its heart. To do this, pull off all the leaves one by one, or cut them off with a knife if you are confident enough, until you reach the choke. Check out the images, above, of chef Serge as he demonstrates his professional skill in turning the artichoke.
Photo Marion van Dijk

Scrape out the hairy choke with a small sharp knife or melon baller. Rub the cut surface with lemon, as the artichoke discolours easily.
Photo: Marion van Dijk
Trim all the dark-green parts of the artichoke flesh until you have a creamy surface.
Photo Marion van Dijk
Trim the bottom off the stalk and then slice off the green flesh until it is the same creamy surface as the trimmed flowerhead. The result looks rather like a chalice with a long stem. Keep the artichoke in cold water with a lemon squeezed into it until you are ready to use it.

Try braising the prepared artichokes in a mixture of white wine and chicken stock with two cloves of garlic until they are just tender. These are delicious sliced and added to a risotto.

STEAMED ARTICHOKES

1 artichoke per person

Prepare the artichokes following the method described above. Steam for about 45 minutes to an hour until tender. Pull off a leaf, and if it comes away easily, the artichoke is cooked. Serve with butter, oil or mayonnaise. The fresher the artichoke, the more quickly it will cook.

BAKED ARTICHOKES WITH CRAB STUFFING

4 artichokes (to serve 4), prepared as above
3 Tbsp olive oil
2 Tbsp butter
Finely diced red pepper and red onion
1 stick celery
4 cloves garlic
2 cups of fresh breadcrumbs (ciabatta)
400g crabmeat

Once you have prepared the artichokes and removed the tops, pull out the central core leaves covering the choke and then slice out the choke with a sharp paring knife.

Saute the pepper, onion, garlic and celery in the oil and butter, until translucent. Cool and add to the breadcrumbs. Then add the crabmeat and mix thoroughly. Season to taste.

Stuff each artichoke in the centre and between the leaves. Place the artichokes in a roasting dish and add sufficient water to come just over halfway up the artichokes. Cover with foil and bake in a moderate oven for about an hour. Test the artichoke by pulling off a leaf. If it comes away easily, it is cooked.

OTHER WAYS

Roasted: Prepare the artichoke following the method described. Spread the leaves apart and stuff 4 to 6 cloves of garlic into the centre of the artichoke. Pour a small quantity of good-quality extra-virgin olive oil between the leaves. Season. Cover with two layers of tin foil and bake in a moderate oven for about 1 1/2 hours.

Grilled: Prepare the artichoke following the method described. Slice the artichoke in half lengthwise. Remove the hairy choke. Steam for about 15 minutes.

Marinated: Make a marinade with the juice of 2 lemons, 8 Tbsp of olive oil, 4 cloves of crushed garlic, salt and pepper. Rub the mixture on the artichokes and place on a hot barbecue grill or frying pan. Baste regularly and turn regularly until the artichoke is cooked.

Hoki Fish

Photo: Marion van Dijk
It is surprising how many people get lip curl when hoki is mentioned. "It's an inferior fish" or "I wouldn't bother with it" are common refrains.

Based on what, you have to ask. Is it how it looks? Not the most visually gorgeous, I agree, but don't be put off.

I think hoki is an essential fish in a well-rounded culinary repertoire and the fact that McDonald's use it in their "filet o' fish" should be viewed as an endorsement to its versatility, rather than a negative quality.

It is delicious when baked and smothered in a herb and garlic crust. and I would say to the most ardent critic, try the recipe before any more criticism passes your lips. It is always exciting to use different ingredients and to experience that moment of discovery when you realise what you have been missing out on.

Hoki is New Zealand's largest commercial fishery and is caught year round, mainly off the West Coast of the South Island, in Cook Strait and around the Chathams.

The catch is carefully monitored and its value to New Zealand in 2008 was $151 million. So in commercial terms the fish is a mammoth.

Hoki is a Maori word meaning "to return". The fish is a blue grenadier and is also known as blue hake, New Zealand whiptail or whiptail hake. Its scientific name is Macruronus novazealandiae and it is a merluccid hake of the merlucciidae family.

It is blue-green in colour and is a close relative of cod (so if you like cod you will like hoki).

The fish has a long, tapered body, big eyes and a protruding jaw. It grows between 60cm and 120cm in length. The flesh of hoki is moist, white and delicate - so much so that it appears to be almost fragile. The fresher the fish, the more robust it is. It doesn't have a great shelf life but when it is really fresh it has the best form, so buy it in that state.

The other striking thing about hoki is that the flesh surrounds seams of fat.
Photo: Marion van Dijk

Don't be confused into thinking this seam is ugly and useless. It is chocker full of omega 3 goodness, so much so that hoki is now being used to produce fish oil as an excellent new source for omega 3.

The fish has relatively few scales or bones and so fillets really easily. It can be served with the skin on or off. The skin is quite soft and as it has very few scales and is mild flavoured it can be eaten as well.

Hoki is normally sold in fillets and these can be baked, sauteed, grilled or steamed. It has a slightly sweet taste when cooked. It retains its moisture and becomes fluffy and fulsome when cooked, and particularly when baked in a crust it melts in your mouth. It retails for $13 a kilogram so it is good value for money as well.
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HOKI WITH A HERB CRUST
Serves 4

800g of fish (200g per person)
2 cups breadcrumbs, preferably ciabatta
Plenty of fresh parsley (or basil in summer)
3 cloves of garlic
1/4 cup grated parmesan cheese
Olive oil about 1/2 cup
Salt and pepper to taste

Preheat the oven to 200 degrees Celsius (fanbake).

Put the breadcrumbs, parsley (or basil), garlic, salt and pepper and cheese into a food processor and pulse use enough herbs to make the mixture bright green. Add olive oil in a steady stream until the consistency is fine and crumbly.

Place the hoki fillets in a roasting pan and smother the fish in the breadcrumb mixture. Drizzle a little extra virgin oil over the top.

Bake in the hot oven for about 6-8 minutes, until the breadcrumbs have just turned golden brown.

Serve with mashed potatoes and either green beans or asparagus as it comes into season shortly.

CAJUN FISH WITH ROAST KUMARA AND SPINACH AND PEA SALAD
Serves 4
Photo: Marion van Dijk

800g hoki fillets
Cajun spice mix:
3 Tbsp oregano
3 Tbsp paprika
1 Tbsp cumin powder
1 Tbsp cayenne pepper

Kumara, cut into chunks
Rice bran oil
Plenty of spinach
1 cup baby peas
Red onion
3 Tbsp olive oil
1 Tbsp balsamic vinegar
Clove of garlic
1 tsp dijon mustard

Preheat the oven to 200C (fanbake). Roast the chunks of kumara in a little oil while you prepare the hoki.

In a roasting pan mix together 4-5 Tbsp of rice bran oil and 2 Tbsp of the cajun spice. Add the fish fillets and coat the fish with the mixture on both sides. Set aside for 20 minutes while you prepare the salad.

Make a dressing in a large bowl by combining the olive oil, balsamic vinegar, minced garlic and mustard, with lots of black pepper and sea salt. Mix well.

Add lots of chopped spinach and finely chopped red onion. Let it sit for 10 minutes. Add 1 cup of warm baby peas and toss through the salad.

Bake the fish for about 6-8 minutes until just done. Serve with the kumara and salad.

HOKI WITH BRAISED VEGETABLES

800g hoki in fillets
Grated parmesan to coat fish
1 egg, beaten
1 fennel bulb
2 red onions
4 sticks of celery
1 red pepper
4 cloves of garlic
800g of canned Italian tomatoes
1 Tbsp oregano
2 tsp fennel seeds
2 tsp red chilli flakes
1/2 cup vegetable stock.
2 tsp of raw sugar

Chop the fennel bulb, red onions and red pepper, slice the celery and finely chop the garlic.

Heat 4 Tbsp of olive oil in a large pan and add fennel, onion, celery and garlic, sauteeing until translucent. Add the red pepper and continue cooking.

Add oregano and fennel seeds. Continue cooking.

Add tomatoes. Continue to cook.

Add stock, salt, black pepper and 2 tsp of red chilli flakes. Simmer gently until the liquid has reduced about 30 minutes.

Cut the fish into large chunks. Coat in beaten egg and then in grated parmesan cheese.

Place in a roasting pan with a little olive oil and place under the grill. Cook until golden. Serve the fish on top of the vegetables.

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