Hoki Fish

Photo: Marion van Dijk
It is surprising how many people get lip curl when hoki is mentioned. "It's an inferior fish" or "I wouldn't bother with it" are common refrains.

Based on what, you have to ask. Is it how it looks? Not the most visually gorgeous, I agree, but don't be put off.

I think hoki is an essential fish in a well-rounded culinary repertoire and the fact that McDonald's use it in their "filet o' fish" should be viewed as an endorsement to its versatility, rather than a negative quality.

It is delicious when baked and smothered in a herb and garlic crust. and I would say to the most ardent critic, try the recipe before any more criticism passes your lips. It is always exciting to use different ingredients and to experience that moment of discovery when you realise what you have been missing out on.

Hoki is New Zealand's largest commercial fishery and is caught year round, mainly off the West Coast of the South Island, in Cook Strait and around the Chathams.

The catch is carefully monitored and its value to New Zealand in 2008 was $151 million. So in commercial terms the fish is a mammoth.

Hoki is a Maori word meaning "to return". The fish is a blue grenadier and is also known as blue hake, New Zealand whiptail or whiptail hake. Its scientific name is Macruronus novazealandiae and it is a merluccid hake of the merlucciidae family.

It is blue-green in colour and is a close relative of cod (so if you like cod you will like hoki).

The fish has a long, tapered body, big eyes and a protruding jaw. It grows between 60cm and 120cm in length. The flesh of hoki is moist, white and delicate - so much so that it appears to be almost fragile. The fresher the fish, the more robust it is. It doesn't have a great shelf life but when it is really fresh it has the best form, so buy it in that state.

The other striking thing about hoki is that the flesh surrounds seams of fat.
Photo: Marion van Dijk

Don't be confused into thinking this seam is ugly and useless. It is chocker full of omega 3 goodness, so much so that hoki is now being used to produce fish oil as an excellent new source for omega 3.

The fish has relatively few scales or bones and so fillets really easily. It can be served with the skin on or off. The skin is quite soft and as it has very few scales and is mild flavoured it can be eaten as well.

Hoki is normally sold in fillets and these can be baked, sauteed, grilled or steamed. It has a slightly sweet taste when cooked. It retains its moisture and becomes fluffy and fulsome when cooked, and particularly when baked in a crust it melts in your mouth. It retails for $13 a kilogram so it is good value for money as well.
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HOKI WITH A HERB CRUST
Serves 4

800g of fish (200g per person)
2 cups breadcrumbs, preferably ciabatta
Plenty of fresh parsley (or basil in summer)
3 cloves of garlic
1/4 cup grated parmesan cheese
Olive oil about 1/2 cup
Salt and pepper to taste

Preheat the oven to 200 degrees Celsius (fanbake).

Put the breadcrumbs, parsley (or basil), garlic, salt and pepper and cheese into a food processor and pulse use enough herbs to make the mixture bright green. Add olive oil in a steady stream until the consistency is fine and crumbly.

Place the hoki fillets in a roasting pan and smother the fish in the breadcrumb mixture. Drizzle a little extra virgin oil over the top.

Bake in the hot oven for about 6-8 minutes, until the breadcrumbs have just turned golden brown.

Serve with mashed potatoes and either green beans or asparagus as it comes into season shortly.

CAJUN FISH WITH ROAST KUMARA AND SPINACH AND PEA SALAD
Serves 4
Photo: Marion van Dijk

800g hoki fillets
Cajun spice mix:
3 Tbsp oregano
3 Tbsp paprika
1 Tbsp cumin powder
1 Tbsp cayenne pepper

Kumara, cut into chunks
Rice bran oil
Plenty of spinach
1 cup baby peas
Red onion
3 Tbsp olive oil
1 Tbsp balsamic vinegar
Clove of garlic
1 tsp dijon mustard

Preheat the oven to 200C (fanbake). Roast the chunks of kumara in a little oil while you prepare the hoki.

In a roasting pan mix together 4-5 Tbsp of rice bran oil and 2 Tbsp of the cajun spice. Add the fish fillets and coat the fish with the mixture on both sides. Set aside for 20 minutes while you prepare the salad.

Make a dressing in a large bowl by combining the olive oil, balsamic vinegar, minced garlic and mustard, with lots of black pepper and sea salt. Mix well.

Add lots of chopped spinach and finely chopped red onion. Let it sit for 10 minutes. Add 1 cup of warm baby peas and toss through the salad.

Bake the fish for about 6-8 minutes until just done. Serve with the kumara and salad.

HOKI WITH BRAISED VEGETABLES

800g hoki in fillets
Grated parmesan to coat fish
1 egg, beaten
1 fennel bulb
2 red onions
4 sticks of celery
1 red pepper
4 cloves of garlic
800g of canned Italian tomatoes
1 Tbsp oregano
2 tsp fennel seeds
2 tsp red chilli flakes
1/2 cup vegetable stock.
2 tsp of raw sugar

Chop the fennel bulb, red onions and red pepper, slice the celery and finely chop the garlic.

Heat 4 Tbsp of olive oil in a large pan and add fennel, onion, celery and garlic, sauteeing until translucent. Add the red pepper and continue cooking.

Add oregano and fennel seeds. Continue cooking.

Add tomatoes. Continue to cook.

Add stock, salt, black pepper and 2 tsp of red chilli flakes. Simmer gently until the liquid has reduced about 30 minutes.

Cut the fish into large chunks. Coat in beaten egg and then in grated parmesan cheese.

Place in a roasting pan with a little olive oil and place under the grill. Cook until golden. Serve the fish on top of the vegetables.

*

The king of fish

Photo: marion van Dijk
The glistening deep apricot flesh of fresh salmon adorns every fish vendor's window throughout New Zealand. Supply is constant and we take it for granted. Salmon must be the most universally recognised and appreciated fish, but it wasn't always the case.

Thirty years ago, before salmon farming began in New Zealand, you either saw salmon in a can or you may have been lucky enough to know a fisherman who fished the mouth of a braided river on the South Island's east coast and who might bring you a prize.

Salmon tastes good, looks good and is great for the brain, skin and eyes. In fact, it has remarkable health benefits. It is an excellent source of protein and vitamins as well. The best thing is that it is a natural source of omega 3 - so essential in the human diet - which protects us against heart disease and builds our natural immunity. We should eat fatty fish twice a week to get the fatty acids we need to be healthy, so bring salmon into your diet if isn't there already.

Salmon comes in different guises depending on the species. Most of the world's supply of salmon (two million tonnes, I am told by Don Everitt of NZ King Salmon) is farmed Atlantic salmon and the majority of farmed salmon originates in Chile and Norway.

The species farmed in New Zealand is a Pacific salmon, the chinook or king salmon to be precise. King salmon is rightly named, according to those in the know; words like bigger, worthier and tastier, sensuous even, are attributed to the king, while the Atlantic salmon is described as duller, gluggy and fatty. Don Everitt explains that with king salmon, the lipids (fats) are expressed as oils, resulting in a superior texture.

King salmon is farmed in a number of places in New Zealand, from small family businesses to the largest company in the country, which produces 7000 tonnes a year - 60 per cent of the worldwide supply of farmed king salmon. The company is right here at the top of the south: NZ King Salmon.

From its hatchery at Waikoropupu Springs in Golden Bay to the six sea farms in the Marlborough Sounds and the processing plant in Tahunanui, it is a true top of the south affair, making the most of our fabulous natural environment.

The purest waters of Waikoropupu Springs supply the hatchery, then the fish are moved to the ideal growing conditions of the Marlborough Sounds: clear water, clean environment, uncrowded sea cages, excellent water temperatures and water flow. All conditions to produce the best, most delectable salmon.
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You can be pretty sure that if you are buying fresh salmon in the Nelson Marlborough region, you are buying the product of NZ King Salmon.

Their fresh salmon retails under the brand name Regal and smoked salmon and other value-added products under the Seasmoke and Southern Ocean brands.

Salmon is equally delicious fresh or smoked and the options we have for smoked salmon products in our region are vast, including such delights as the fresh smoked salmon of Mapua Nature Smoke.

Salmon is delectable cooked in many ways - simply steaming it is a great option, or wrapping a whole fish in foil and baking in a slow oven until just cooked through.

Grilling or baking and cooking until just rare, glazed with the glaze of your choice, is hard to beat. (Look at the olive story published in June to see the delights of combining with Villa Grove Lime Oil).
Photo: Marion van Dijk

If you haven't tried raw salmon yet, as sashimi, you must. It is a great way to educate your palate to eat salmon rare and never commit the sin of overcooking it again.

I consulted my good friend John Moore, of Sail Nelson and Wakefield Quay House, the wisest fish man I know, about how he prepares sashimi and he provides the following advice.

When you choose a piece of salmon it must be as fresh as possible; the flesh should gleam and have no fish smell. The colour is important - look for a darker fillet.

John says this is the tastiest and he even prefers a piece of a fillet that is close to the belly because it has greater flavour and that is where the fat is stored.

Run your fingers from tail to head to check for pin bones and remove them with a pair of eyebrow tweezers.

Check to see if there is any dark red meat and remove it (this would be stored blood).

Then slice the fish against the grain into pieces about 2mm thick. The thickness is also a matter of taste but thicker is in vogue these days.

Enjoy the salmon with wasabi - the tube variety is stronger - and soy sauce.

Collingwood St Fresh Choice is stocking a sashimi soy that John says is the best.

BAKED MARINATED SALMON
Photo: Marion van Dijk
800g of fresh salmon fillet (feeds 4 allow about 200g of salmon per person)
Marinade:
1/4 cup of soy sauce
2 Tbsp mirin
2 Tbsp oyster sauce (see note about other options)

Marinate the fish for about an hour. You can substitute chilli sauce for oyster sauce and add 2 or 3 chopped kaffir lime leaves.
You can change the mirin for white wine or use lime juice instead.
If you want a Mediterranean flavour, use 1/4 cup of combined vincotta and balsamic vinegar, 2 Tbsp olive oil, 1 tsp of Dijon mustard , 1 Tbsp of brown sugar and chopped tarragon.
Bake at 200 degrees Celsius for about 8-10 minutes. The fish should not be cooked through.
Serve with a salad of steamed broccoli that is still crunchy, roasted red pepper cut into strips, lots of fresh chopped coriander in a dressing of lime juice, lime oil, red pepper flakes and sea salt.
If you are making the Mediterranean version, make a dressing with balsamic vinegar and substitute fresh basil for the fresh coriander.

HOT SMOKED SALMON SALAD
Use a fresh local hot smoked salmon for this dish. Serves 4.
400g of hot smoked salmon
Six slices of haloumi cheese
1/2 cup of toasted slivered almonds
A mixture of rocket and cos lettuce leaves
Half a red onion, finely sliced
Fresh basil, roughly chopped
A little salt and lots of freshly ground black pepper

Slice the haloumi into thick slices and place on a roasting tray. Bake at 200C until they turn golden. Turn and repeat the process. Cool.
Roast the almonds in the hot oven until golden. Cool.
In a salad bowl, make a dressing of 3 Tbsp of olive oil to 1 Tbsp of tarragon wine vinegar. Add pepper and a tsp of sea salt.
Add the lettuce and rocket, broken-up pieces of smoked salmon, red onion, basil, almonds and haloumi cheese, each piece cut in half.