Asparagus

Photo: Marion van Dijk
Asparagus – crisp, succulent, grassy, herbaceous – tells us more than any other vegetable that spring is here.

The day I discovered grilled asparagus, a whole new dimension of taste and texture entered my life; a long way from childhood days and memories of afternoon tea parties, Kiwi-style, of egg sandwiches with the crusts cut off and the ubiquitous asparagus rolls made with overcooked asparagus rolled up in thinly buttered white bread.

I think the asparagus roll is ready for a comeback, hopefully with a more healthy, more appetising preparation of the asparagus: just lightly steamed and still crunchy.

After all, we now all know that overcooking vegetables destroys their taste, texture, colour and reduces their nutritional value.

Fresh asparagus is absolutely loaded with nutrients, so much so that it is like taking a multivitamin pill. In asparagus you find vitamin, K, folate, vitamins C, A, B1, B2, B3, manganese, fibre, phosphorus, potassium, iron, zinc, magnesium, selenium and calcium. It is low in sodium and in calories.

A pity the season is so short, not only to enjoy the taste of asparagus but also knowing how good it is for us.

Asparagus, a member of the lily family, is really available fresh only in the spring to early summer, so we have to make the most of it. It retails between $8 and $12 a kilogram depending on supply and the time of the season.

It comes to us in an array of fat stalks, medium stalks and skinny stalks. Which ones you choose is a matter of taste, but it pays to be consistent in the size that you choose so that it will cook uniformly.

Asparagus is best eaten as fresh as you can get it. Always check the tips – they should not be split or look dried. The spears should be bright green and blemish free.

There are different views about preparing asparagus. Some people peel the spears, particularly the lower portions, to get rid of any stringy bits. Others view peeling as sacrilege.

You can snap off the base of the asparagus at the point where you feel resistance, which gets rid of the tough bit at the bottom of the spear. Save them to make a delicious asparagus soup.

Whatever way you choose to prepare asparagus, peeled or not, bottom snapped off or not, it should be cooked only until the spears are still crisp yet tender. If you prick the asparagus with the tip of a knife you should feel some resistance and if you are boiling or steaming it, the spears should be served bright green.
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Keep an eye on the spears while they are cooking so you don't overcook them. The point between perfectly cooked and overcooked is a matter of only a minute or two.

When you are steaming or boiling the spears, first bring the water to the boil before adding the asparagus.

Asparagus is delicious plain with a little oil or butter, or hollandaise sauce, if you must. It really requires very little to adorn it. It is a wonderful accompaniment for meat and fish dishes as well as pasta, egg or rice dishes. It is great in quiches or tarts.

GRILLED ASPARAGUS
Photo: Marion van Dijk
To grill asparagus, lie equal-sized spears on a baking dish, drizzle with extra virgin olive oil and salt and pepper and place under a hot grill until the asparagus begins to turn golden. Test a spear to ensure that you don't overcook it.

ASPARAGUS WITH PROSCIUTTO

Wrap three spears of asparagus in two pieces of fine prosciutto, per person (buy prosciutto from the Mediterranean Warehouse) and grill or bake in a hot oven until the prosciutto is slightly crisp and the asparagus is just tender. Serve with a cheese and onion frittata.

CHEESE AND ONION FRITTATA

Serves 4

Slice a medium onion and saute in olive oil in a heavy frypan that you can put in the oven. Saute until the onion softens. Add 2 cloves of garlic, finely sliced. Add a handful of chopped Italian parsley and six eggs lightly beaten. Add a cup of grated tasty cheese and 3 to 4 Tbsp of grated parmesan cheese.

Turn the heat down to very low and cook gently for five minutes.

Place the frypan in the oven under the grill element and grill until the top puffs up and turns golden.

ASPARAGUS SOUP
A delicious first course – serves 4
Photo: Marion van dijk

500g of asparagus
4 shallots or 1 medium onion
2 Tbsp of butter
1.2 litres of chicken stock
2-3 sprigs of fresh marjoram
1/4 cup of light cream

Peel the asparagus to about halfway up the spears. You need to peel them, or alternatively you will need to sieve the soup at the end to get rid of the fibrous stringy pieces.

Cut the spears into three pieces. Reserve the top 2 centimetres of the tips of the spears. Slice the shallots.

Melt the butter in a saucepan and add the shallots and the asparagus pieces except for the asparagus tips.

Saute until the vegetables soften.

Add the chicken stock and simmer the soup for at least 30 minutes. Take off the heat and cool.

Puree the soup until smooth. Return to the pot and bring to a gentle boil, reduce the soup by at least a third to concentrate the flavours.

Turn down to a simmer and add the asparagus tips. Cook until the tops are just tender. Add the cream and salt and pepper to taste.

Artichokes

Photo: marion van dijk
Just as we boast about Ohakune as being the carrot capital of the world, with its main street adorned with a mammoth carrot, so is Castroville, California, the artichoke capital of the world, with a 20-foot (six-metre) concrete artichoke creation.

The tiny town is also steeped in the mythology of Norma Jean Baker, who was crowned the first Artichoke Queen in 1947. Norma Jean went on to become screen legend Marilyn Monroe and may have even considered her dalliance with artichokes a pivotal point in her career.

My dalliance with artichokes began when I lived in California, where the annual artichoke season is a much-heralded event in the seasonal calendar.

There, the artichoke takes centre stage, and they are eaten in many different ways, from steamed whole to roasted whole, to artichoke hearts deep fried or marinated artichokes hearts chargrilled or plain.

They grow abundantly in the climate of the Pacific northwest from early spring. They also grow well in New Zealand, and even though they are a Mediterranean vegetable, they thrive in a temperate climate.

They are just coming into season now and Brett Ferretti from Grown in Hope produces a fantastic local crop that can be found at the Saturday market or at Richmond or Collingwood St Fresh Choice.

You may even have your own plant or two, in which case they will be budding now.

Artichokes are good for you as well. They are a natural diuretic, contain folic acid, potassium and magnesium and are a good source of dietary fibre.

For those of you who may not be familiar with the globe artichoke (Cynara scolymus), it is a herbaceous perennial and a member of the thistle family. The flowerhead of the plant is what you eat and the head is formed with many overlapping bracts or leaves.

The artichoke is mostly eaten fresh with the whole head being steamed, or alternatively and definitely more laboriously, the majority of the leaves can be torn off to expose the heart and the heart is then steamed, or if you are Italian, roasted, braised or grilled in many combinations, but with garlic and olive oil being essential.

The hearts can also be marinated and preserved and are readily available in supermarkets.

HOW TO PREPARE AND EAT ARTICHOKES
Photo: Marion van Dijk

To prepare whole artichokes, first slice off the top of the artichoke using a serrated edged knife. Slice off the top five centimetres to get rid of the prickly tops of the leaves and to expose the centre of the flowerhead. You can also snip off the points of the remaining leaves to get rid of any remaining prickly offenders.

Slice off the stalk, so that the artichoke can sit flat. You can cook the trimmed stalk as well, so don't throw it out. The artichoke is now ready for cooking. If you are not going to immediately cook it, rub any cut surfaces with lemon.

Eating whole steamed artichokes is a sensuous affair, with each leaf plucked off the head and dipped in melted butter or extra-virgin olive oil or a garlic aioli. Pluck and dip each leaf, pulling the flesh from the leaf tip through your teeth.

Once all the leaves are gone, you reach the hairy choke. The hairy bit protects the delicate heart beneath. Remove all the choke carefully with the edge of a teaspoon or a knife and then dip the jewel of a heart into a dip and savour the taste. Truly delectable.

The alternative to all that plucking and dipping, and a lot less messy in the eating, is to pare the artichoke down to its heart. To do this, pull off all the leaves one by one, or cut them off with a knife if you are confident enough, until you reach the choke. Check out the images, above, of chef Serge as he demonstrates his professional skill in turning the artichoke.
Photo Marion van Dijk

Scrape out the hairy choke with a small sharp knife or melon baller. Rub the cut surface with lemon, as the artichoke discolours easily.
Photo: Marion van Dijk
Trim all the dark-green parts of the artichoke flesh until you have a creamy surface.
Photo Marion van Dijk
Trim the bottom off the stalk and then slice off the green flesh until it is the same creamy surface as the trimmed flowerhead. The result looks rather like a chalice with a long stem. Keep the artichoke in cold water with a lemon squeezed into it until you are ready to use it.

Try braising the prepared artichokes in a mixture of white wine and chicken stock with two cloves of garlic until they are just tender. These are delicious sliced and added to a risotto.

STEAMED ARTICHOKES

1 artichoke per person

Prepare the artichokes following the method described above. Steam for about 45 minutes to an hour until tender. Pull off a leaf, and if it comes away easily, the artichoke is cooked. Serve with butter, oil or mayonnaise. The fresher the artichoke, the more quickly it will cook.

BAKED ARTICHOKES WITH CRAB STUFFING

4 artichokes (to serve 4), prepared as above
3 Tbsp olive oil
2 Tbsp butter
Finely diced red pepper and red onion
1 stick celery
4 cloves garlic
2 cups of fresh breadcrumbs (ciabatta)
400g crabmeat

Once you have prepared the artichokes and removed the tops, pull out the central core leaves covering the choke and then slice out the choke with a sharp paring knife.

Saute the pepper, onion, garlic and celery in the oil and butter, until translucent. Cool and add to the breadcrumbs. Then add the crabmeat and mix thoroughly. Season to taste.

Stuff each artichoke in the centre and between the leaves. Place the artichokes in a roasting dish and add sufficient water to come just over halfway up the artichokes. Cover with foil and bake in a moderate oven for about an hour. Test the artichoke by pulling off a leaf. If it comes away easily, it is cooked.

OTHER WAYS

Roasted: Prepare the artichoke following the method described. Spread the leaves apart and stuff 4 to 6 cloves of garlic into the centre of the artichoke. Pour a small quantity of good-quality extra-virgin olive oil between the leaves. Season. Cover with two layers of tin foil and bake in a moderate oven for about 1 1/2 hours.

Grilled: Prepare the artichoke following the method described. Slice the artichoke in half lengthwise. Remove the hairy choke. Steam for about 15 minutes.

Marinated: Make a marinade with the juice of 2 lemons, 8 Tbsp of olive oil, 4 cloves of crushed garlic, salt and pepper. Rub the mixture on the artichokes and place on a hot barbecue grill or frying pan. Baste regularly and turn regularly until the artichoke is cooked.

Hoki Fish

Photo: Marion van Dijk
It is surprising how many people get lip curl when hoki is mentioned. "It's an inferior fish" or "I wouldn't bother with it" are common refrains.

Based on what, you have to ask. Is it how it looks? Not the most visually gorgeous, I agree, but don't be put off.

I think hoki is an essential fish in a well-rounded culinary repertoire and the fact that McDonald's use it in their "filet o' fish" should be viewed as an endorsement to its versatility, rather than a negative quality.

It is delicious when baked and smothered in a herb and garlic crust. and I would say to the most ardent critic, try the recipe before any more criticism passes your lips. It is always exciting to use different ingredients and to experience that moment of discovery when you realise what you have been missing out on.

Hoki is New Zealand's largest commercial fishery and is caught year round, mainly off the West Coast of the South Island, in Cook Strait and around the Chathams.

The catch is carefully monitored and its value to New Zealand in 2008 was $151 million. So in commercial terms the fish is a mammoth.

Hoki is a Maori word meaning "to return". The fish is a blue grenadier and is also known as blue hake, New Zealand whiptail or whiptail hake. Its scientific name is Macruronus novazealandiae and it is a merluccid hake of the merlucciidae family.

It is blue-green in colour and is a close relative of cod (so if you like cod you will like hoki).

The fish has a long, tapered body, big eyes and a protruding jaw. It grows between 60cm and 120cm in length. The flesh of hoki is moist, white and delicate - so much so that it appears to be almost fragile. The fresher the fish, the more robust it is. It doesn't have a great shelf life but when it is really fresh it has the best form, so buy it in that state.

The other striking thing about hoki is that the flesh surrounds seams of fat.
Photo: Marion van Dijk

Don't be confused into thinking this seam is ugly and useless. It is chocker full of omega 3 goodness, so much so that hoki is now being used to produce fish oil as an excellent new source for omega 3.

The fish has relatively few scales or bones and so fillets really easily. It can be served with the skin on or off. The skin is quite soft and as it has very few scales and is mild flavoured it can be eaten as well.

Hoki is normally sold in fillets and these can be baked, sauteed, grilled or steamed. It has a slightly sweet taste when cooked. It retains its moisture and becomes fluffy and fulsome when cooked, and particularly when baked in a crust it melts in your mouth. It retails for $13 a kilogram so it is good value for money as well.
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HOKI WITH A HERB CRUST
Serves 4

800g of fish (200g per person)
2 cups breadcrumbs, preferably ciabatta
Plenty of fresh parsley (or basil in summer)
3 cloves of garlic
1/4 cup grated parmesan cheese
Olive oil about 1/2 cup
Salt and pepper to taste

Preheat the oven to 200 degrees Celsius (fanbake).

Put the breadcrumbs, parsley (or basil), garlic, salt and pepper and cheese into a food processor and pulse use enough herbs to make the mixture bright green. Add olive oil in a steady stream until the consistency is fine and crumbly.

Place the hoki fillets in a roasting pan and smother the fish in the breadcrumb mixture. Drizzle a little extra virgin oil over the top.

Bake in the hot oven for about 6-8 minutes, until the breadcrumbs have just turned golden brown.

Serve with mashed potatoes and either green beans or asparagus as it comes into season shortly.

CAJUN FISH WITH ROAST KUMARA AND SPINACH AND PEA SALAD
Serves 4
Photo: Marion van Dijk

800g hoki fillets
Cajun spice mix:
3 Tbsp oregano
3 Tbsp paprika
1 Tbsp cumin powder
1 Tbsp cayenne pepper

Kumara, cut into chunks
Rice bran oil
Plenty of spinach
1 cup baby peas
Red onion
3 Tbsp olive oil
1 Tbsp balsamic vinegar
Clove of garlic
1 tsp dijon mustard

Preheat the oven to 200C (fanbake). Roast the chunks of kumara in a little oil while you prepare the hoki.

In a roasting pan mix together 4-5 Tbsp of rice bran oil and 2 Tbsp of the cajun spice. Add the fish fillets and coat the fish with the mixture on both sides. Set aside for 20 minutes while you prepare the salad.

Make a dressing in a large bowl by combining the olive oil, balsamic vinegar, minced garlic and mustard, with lots of black pepper and sea salt. Mix well.

Add lots of chopped spinach and finely chopped red onion. Let it sit for 10 minutes. Add 1 cup of warm baby peas and toss through the salad.

Bake the fish for about 6-8 minutes until just done. Serve with the kumara and salad.

HOKI WITH BRAISED VEGETABLES

800g hoki in fillets
Grated parmesan to coat fish
1 egg, beaten
1 fennel bulb
2 red onions
4 sticks of celery
1 red pepper
4 cloves of garlic
800g of canned Italian tomatoes
1 Tbsp oregano
2 tsp fennel seeds
2 tsp red chilli flakes
1/2 cup vegetable stock.
2 tsp of raw sugar

Chop the fennel bulb, red onions and red pepper, slice the celery and finely chop the garlic.

Heat 4 Tbsp of olive oil in a large pan and add fennel, onion, celery and garlic, sauteeing until translucent. Add the red pepper and continue cooking.

Add oregano and fennel seeds. Continue cooking.

Add tomatoes. Continue to cook.

Add stock, salt, black pepper and 2 tsp of red chilli flakes. Simmer gently until the liquid has reduced about 30 minutes.

Cut the fish into large chunks. Coat in beaten egg and then in grated parmesan cheese.

Place in a roasting pan with a little olive oil and place under the grill. Cook until golden. Serve the fish on top of the vegetables.

*

The king of fish

Photo: marion van Dijk
The glistening deep apricot flesh of fresh salmon adorns every fish vendor's window throughout New Zealand. Supply is constant and we take it for granted. Salmon must be the most universally recognised and appreciated fish, but it wasn't always the case.

Thirty years ago, before salmon farming began in New Zealand, you either saw salmon in a can or you may have been lucky enough to know a fisherman who fished the mouth of a braided river on the South Island's east coast and who might bring you a prize.

Salmon tastes good, looks good and is great for the brain, skin and eyes. In fact, it has remarkable health benefits. It is an excellent source of protein and vitamins as well. The best thing is that it is a natural source of omega 3 - so essential in the human diet - which protects us against heart disease and builds our natural immunity. We should eat fatty fish twice a week to get the fatty acids we need to be healthy, so bring salmon into your diet if isn't there already.

Salmon comes in different guises depending on the species. Most of the world's supply of salmon (two million tonnes, I am told by Don Everitt of NZ King Salmon) is farmed Atlantic salmon and the majority of farmed salmon originates in Chile and Norway.

The species farmed in New Zealand is a Pacific salmon, the chinook or king salmon to be precise. King salmon is rightly named, according to those in the know; words like bigger, worthier and tastier, sensuous even, are attributed to the king, while the Atlantic salmon is described as duller, gluggy and fatty. Don Everitt explains that with king salmon, the lipids (fats) are expressed as oils, resulting in a superior texture.

King salmon is farmed in a number of places in New Zealand, from small family businesses to the largest company in the country, which produces 7000 tonnes a year - 60 per cent of the worldwide supply of farmed king salmon. The company is right here at the top of the south: NZ King Salmon.

From its hatchery at Waikoropupu Springs in Golden Bay to the six sea farms in the Marlborough Sounds and the processing plant in Tahunanui, it is a true top of the south affair, making the most of our fabulous natural environment.

The purest waters of Waikoropupu Springs supply the hatchery, then the fish are moved to the ideal growing conditions of the Marlborough Sounds: clear water, clean environment, uncrowded sea cages, excellent water temperatures and water flow. All conditions to produce the best, most delectable salmon.
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You can be pretty sure that if you are buying fresh salmon in the Nelson Marlborough region, you are buying the product of NZ King Salmon.

Their fresh salmon retails under the brand name Regal and smoked salmon and other value-added products under the Seasmoke and Southern Ocean brands.

Salmon is equally delicious fresh or smoked and the options we have for smoked salmon products in our region are vast, including such delights as the fresh smoked salmon of Mapua Nature Smoke.

Salmon is delectable cooked in many ways - simply steaming it is a great option, or wrapping a whole fish in foil and baking in a slow oven until just cooked through.

Grilling or baking and cooking until just rare, glazed with the glaze of your choice, is hard to beat. (Look at the olive story published in June to see the delights of combining with Villa Grove Lime Oil).
Photo: Marion van Dijk

If you haven't tried raw salmon yet, as sashimi, you must. It is a great way to educate your palate to eat salmon rare and never commit the sin of overcooking it again.

I consulted my good friend John Moore, of Sail Nelson and Wakefield Quay House, the wisest fish man I know, about how he prepares sashimi and he provides the following advice.

When you choose a piece of salmon it must be as fresh as possible; the flesh should gleam and have no fish smell. The colour is important - look for a darker fillet.

John says this is the tastiest and he even prefers a piece of a fillet that is close to the belly because it has greater flavour and that is where the fat is stored.

Run your fingers from tail to head to check for pin bones and remove them with a pair of eyebrow tweezers.

Check to see if there is any dark red meat and remove it (this would be stored blood).

Then slice the fish against the grain into pieces about 2mm thick. The thickness is also a matter of taste but thicker is in vogue these days.

Enjoy the salmon with wasabi - the tube variety is stronger - and soy sauce.

Collingwood St Fresh Choice is stocking a sashimi soy that John says is the best.

BAKED MARINATED SALMON
Photo: Marion van Dijk
800g of fresh salmon fillet (feeds 4 allow about 200g of salmon per person)
Marinade:
1/4 cup of soy sauce
2 Tbsp mirin
2 Tbsp oyster sauce (see note about other options)

Marinate the fish for about an hour. You can substitute chilli sauce for oyster sauce and add 2 or 3 chopped kaffir lime leaves.
You can change the mirin for white wine or use lime juice instead.
If you want a Mediterranean flavour, use 1/4 cup of combined vincotta and balsamic vinegar, 2 Tbsp olive oil, 1 tsp of Dijon mustard , 1 Tbsp of brown sugar and chopped tarragon.
Bake at 200 degrees Celsius for about 8-10 minutes. The fish should not be cooked through.
Serve with a salad of steamed broccoli that is still crunchy, roasted red pepper cut into strips, lots of fresh chopped coriander in a dressing of lime juice, lime oil, red pepper flakes and sea salt.
If you are making the Mediterranean version, make a dressing with balsamic vinegar and substitute fresh basil for the fresh coriander.

HOT SMOKED SALMON SALAD
Use a fresh local hot smoked salmon for this dish. Serves 4.
400g of hot smoked salmon
Six slices of haloumi cheese
1/2 cup of toasted slivered almonds
A mixture of rocket and cos lettuce leaves
Half a red onion, finely sliced
Fresh basil, roughly chopped
A little salt and lots of freshly ground black pepper

Slice the haloumi into thick slices and place on a roasting tray. Bake at 200C until they turn golden. Turn and repeat the process. Cool.
Roast the almonds in the hot oven until golden. Cool.
In a salad bowl, make a dressing of 3 Tbsp of olive oil to 1 Tbsp of tarragon wine vinegar. Add pepper and a tsp of sea salt.
Add the lettuce and rocket, broken-up pieces of smoked salmon, red onion, basil, almonds and haloumi cheese, each piece cut in half.