luscious leeks

Photo: Marion van Dijk
Driving up the Appleby Straight, the farm paddocks opposite the Traveller's Rest were full of people harvesting leeks, rows and rows of them, the winter crop ready for people to enjoy.

It made me realise how versatile and robust leeks are, able to flourish and grow in the cold weather of the New Zealand winter, yet equally able to grow in summer.

A local farmer explained to me that there are two varieties - the winter one being harvested right now, and the other harvested in the summer months.

Leeks can be found year-round in New Zealand shops, and if you are fortunate enough to have your own garden or can source leeks direct from a market garden, you can experience baby leeks and discover how truly delicious they are.

This is not to say that a mature leek isn't delicious - it is - but there is something about fresh baby leeks, braised whole, steamed or gently sauteed in a little butter or extra virgin olive oil (local, of course). They melt in your mouth - rich, sweet, soft and fragrant.


When purchasing leeks, always buy them with their green leaves and roots intact. Without these, they deteriorate rapidly, and an old leek is not a good leek.

A good mature leek should have a clean white bulb around 20 centimetres in length and not be too fat. They can be stored for up to a week or so as they are - without being cut, in a plastic bag to keep moisture in and the odour out of the refrigerator.

Leeks are not cheap, retailing for around $1.50-$2 each, but one leek goes a long way. Two or three will serve four to five people as a side dish, and are ample for use in soups or other dishes.

Leeks are also really good for you - they are a great source of vitamin C, fibre, iron, folic acid, calcium and potassium. Like their relatives onions and garlic, they promote the healthy functioning of the blood and heart. Easier to digest than onions, leeks have diuretic, antiseptic and anti-arthritic properties.

Leeks, onions and garlic are members of the Alliaceae family, with leeks differing from onions and garlic in that instead of forming a tight bulb, they produce a long cylinder of bundled leaf sheaths.

Leeks can be prepared in many different ways. The first thing you have to do is wash them thoroughly, as dirt loves to cling between the outer layers of leaves.

Normally, you discard the top green leaves (unless you are making a soup - in that case, the green leaves will add flavour).
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Cut off the very tip of the bulb where the roots are attached, then either slice the leek into rounds or slice it lengthwise into fat fingers or strips, and away you go.

Leeks can be braised, roasted, baked, steamed or sauteed - you can even eat them raw, thinly sliced in salads with a good dressing (the younger the better for this, as they are more tender and delicate in the junior form).

They also flavour soups in the most wonderful way. Everyone has a recipe for leek and potato soup.

One tip, regardless of the method, is don't overcook them - if you do, they get slimy and soft if cooked in a liquid, and dry and hard if you are roasting or baking them.

They don't taste good undercooked either, as they can be tough and chewy. Perfectly cooked is the answer!

The recipes that follow describe different methods of cooking leeks. One of the great things about leeks is that they go with so many dishes - meat, fish and vegetarian meals will all benefit from a side dish of leeks. Here are two ways to create the side dish.

ROAST LEEKS

2 leeks
3 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil
A handful of thyme (leeks and thyme are a lovely combination)
Salt and pepper

Cut the leeks in half and then slice lengthwise to make 4 large strips per leek.

Place in a roasting pan and sprinkle with sea salt and lots of freshly ground pepper. Sprinkle the olive oil over the leeks. Add the thyme. Roast at 160 degrees Celsius.

Turn the leeks after about 10 minutes. Cook until tender - be careful not to overcook or brown the leeks too much.

The cooking time will depend on the size of the leek - 20 minutes should be enough.

BRAISED LEEKS

2 leeks
1 Tbsp of butter and 1 Tbsp of olive oil
3/4 cup of vegetable stock

Slice the leeks into rounds and then gently saute in the butter and oil. Sweat the onions for about 5 minutes until they begin to wilt.

Add the stock. Cover and cook until the leeks are tender. Season and serve in the braising juices.

SNAPPER OVER LEEKS WITH RED PEPPERS AND SMOKED PAPRIKA

600g snapper
For the leeks:
2 Tbsp olive oil
5 cloves of garlic
6-8 baby leeks or 3 mature leeks cut into 8 long strips
A bunch of fresh lemon thyme or regular thyme
Bayleaf
1/2 cup of dry white wine
1 cup of vegetable stock

Heat the oil in a large, heavy frying pan. Add the leeks and garlic and sweat for five minutes over a gentle heat.

Add the thyme, salt and pepper, bay leaf and wine. Reduce the wine by half and then add the stock. Cover tightly and simmer for about 20 minutes.

Add 600g of snapper directly over the leeks and baste with some of the braising liquid.

Transfer to a hot oven (180degC) and bake until the snapper is cooked through (about 10 minutes).

Serve with peppers with smoked paprika:
3 Tbsp olive oil
1 red onion, thinly sliced
1 tsp smoked paprika
4 peppers, 2 red and 2 yellow (or all red)
2 cloves of garlic
1 Tbsp fresh marjoram
Salt and pepper

Heat the oil and add all the ingredients. Simmer, covered, for about 30 minutes over a low heat in a heavy-bottomed pot. The peppers will create their own juices. Delicious!

LEEK AND POTATO SOUP

4 agria potatoes, peeled and cut into dice
3 leeks, cut into round slices (use some of the green part of the leek, about half, discarding the hard top part)
1 bay leaf
A handful of fresh herbs such as thyme, parsley and marjoram
6 litres of good-quality stock - either vegetable or chicken
A little butter and/or oil

Heat the oil in a large pot and add the leeks. Sweat them gently over a medium heat for about 10 minutes. Add the potatoes and continue the process for another 5-10 minutes.

Add the bay leaf and herbs and the stock and simmer for at least 30 minutes, until the potatoes are well cooked.

Remove from the heat and then in a food processor, blend the soup until smooth. Season well.

Reheat gently - it should be thick and creamy. Serve the soup with some chopped chives, some freshly ground pepper and a drizzle of your best extra virgin olive oil.