Sunday, January 3, 2010

Broad beans


Photo: Marion van Dijk
The broad bean is an ancient bean, and apparently has been eaten since the Bronze Age, archaeological findings tell us.

The plain pod belies the velvet interior, which is home to a cluster of beans. When very young and tender, the whole pod can be eaten raw, but as the bean matures it becomes necessary to discard the pod and shell the beans.

Shelling broad beans is a meditative and tactile affair and should not be regarded as a chore. The furry inside of the pod is pleasant to handle, and shelling is simplified by blanching the beans. Drop them in boiling water for about half a minute. Remove and plunge into cold water. This results in the shell slipping off easily to reveal the bright green bean inside.

Once the podding and shelling occurs, the volume decreases significantly, so remember when buying beans to allow about one kilogram of pods to produce two cups of broad beans.

Photo: Marion van Dijk

Now that we are in the flush of spring, hopefully you have a broad bean patch or a good friend who will allow you to raid theirs.

It is a real pleasure to eat the fresh young beans at their prime. They should also be appearing in supermarkets any day now.

The soft texture and buttery, nutty taste of broad beans can be enjoyed raw, or just lightly steamed or boiled and tossed in butter or olive oil with salt and pepper. They also work extremely well in risottos and pasta dishes, and combined with cheeses such as pecorino, soft goat's cheese, feta, mozzarella, parmesan and even haloumi.

As the pods mature and get larger, the beans also grow in size and also become more floury, so the preparation methods need to change as well. Mature beans are excellent in purees or added to slow-cooked dishes.

Broad beans freeze well and can therefore be available year-round. They can also be dried.

They are a great source of protein, to the extent they have been called the "poor man's steak", (or a rich man's steak for vegetable-loving people). They contain vitamins A and C, potassium and iron. They are a source of L-dopa – a precursor to dopamine, used in the treatment of Parkinson's disease. They also contain tyramine, a naturally occurring amino acid that can affect blood pressure. It is present in various other foods such as avocados, bananas, aged cheeses, sausages and red wine.

Broad beans, or fava beans as they are called in many countries, grow in temperate areas of the world. They appear as a staple in Asia, the Middle East, South America and Europe.
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In Egypt, they take centre stage with the national dish of ful medames. This is a delicious combination of cooked mashed beans with the addition of oil, garlic, lemon, salt and cumin, served with pita bread and eaten at breakfast time.

Mashed or pureed broad beans are delicious with a range of herbs and spices added to vary the flavour and to match other dishes.

Another variation is grilled broad beans. If you have never tried this, you must. Toss the beans in their pods in oil and salt and pepper (you can use chilli flakes or add lemon zest at the end of the cooking). Place under a grill in the oven or on top of a grill on the stove top or a barbecue. The beans need to steam in their pods, so don't have the grill too hot. It should take about 3-4 minutes on each side. The pods should be charred but not burnt. Charred means the skins are fully blackened while the inside is smoky but not burnt through. Split the pods open and pop out the beans from the skins.

Here are some other ideas for the new season's broad beans.

BROAD BEAN PUREE

2 cups shelled broad beans
3 Tbsp olive oil
6 sprigs chopped fresh lemon thyme
2 cloves crushed garlic
Juice of a lemon
Salt and pepper

Cook the broad beans, drain and cool slightly. Puree in a food processor or mash with a potato masher. Add the other ingredients.

You can change the seasoning – substitute cumin for the lemon thyme and add some coriander as well, with chilli instead of the black pepper. Play around with the flavours.

Serve with meat or fish, or on top of the bread of your choice.

PENNE PASTA WITH PRAWNS AND BROAD BEANS

250g penne pasta
250g of fresh prawns, cleaned and shelled
100g ricotta
1 lemon
3 cloves of garlic
1 cup broad beans – steamed until just tender
1 chilli pepper, finely sliced
Large bunch of fresh basil (chopped roughly)
Freshly grated parmesan cheese
1/4 cup of olive oil
Sea salt

Cook the pasta until al dente, drain and toss through half the extra virgin olive oil. Keep warm while you make the sauce.

Saute the garlic and chilli in the remaining olive oil until the garlic starts to turn golden.

Quickly toss in the prawns and cook until they turn pink. Add the zest and juice of the lemon and the broad beans. Cook to heat through.

Place the pasta in a big bowl and toss through the ricotta and basil, and add the prawns and broad beans. Season with sea salt and grated parmesan cheese.

Serve immediately.

BROAD BEAN AND BACON RISOTTO

350g fresh broad beans, shelled and lightly steamed (they should be mostly cooked before you add to the risotto)
150g good-quality lean bacon
300g risotto rice
2 shallots
1 small fennel bulb
3 Tbsp olive oil
1.5 to 2 litres of good-quality chicken or vegetable stock
3-4 Tbsp vermouth
3 Tbsp grated parmesan cheese

Saute the shallot and fennel in the olive oil until translucent. Add the bacon. Cook for a minute or two. Add the rice and stir until it is well coated with oil. Add the vermouth and cook for a couple of minutes. Slowly add the stock a few ladles at a time until each amount is incorporated into the rice. Add the broad beans just before the rice is fully cooked. You want the beans to just be cooked and bright green at serving time. Add the stock until the rice is al dente. The risotto should still be moist with a little liquid at the end – not completely dry. You may have some stock left over. Fold through the cheese, season and serve.

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