The colourful world of chillies

Photo: Rob Corlett
Chillies (or Chiles in Spanish)
Chillies are finally becoming part of our culinary landscape.

photo:Brisa Pelayo making salsa Marion van Dijk Nelson Mail
An ingredient that is not widely understood here, demonstrated in the fact that many supermarkets when stocking chillies will simply say on the package: ‘chillies’. You may get told that they are hot or not so hot but even that information is not consistent and often not accurate. Most kiwis are probably familiar with the cayenne variety(usually ground up and sold in packages labelled cayenne pepper) but what is enlightening to learn is that there are over 200 varieties of chillies grown in Mexico , the home of the capsicum plant. It is native to Central and South America as well. A wild variety of capsicum has been found on anthropological sites in central Mexico dating back to 5-7000 years BC. This variety is called capsicum annuum and it is this species that is grown and cultivated today in a myriad of different forms. Chillies have spread all over the world and are equally central to the cuisines of Asia. India is the largest producer of chilli exports in the world.

Two really important facts are that not all chillies are hot and that they are very varied in flavour and texture and can impart a fantastic array of nuance to many different types of dishes. The heat in chillies comes from capsaicin, produced by the glands in the seed bearing part of the chilli. So it is not just the seeds that should be removed from chillies to modify the heat but also the seed sac that surrounds the seeds. However chillies are high in Vitamin C and capsaicin has been linked to providing benefits against certain cancers. The important thing to remember when handling hot chillies is to either wear rubber gloves or ensure that you wash your hands thoroughly after handling the chilli sac and seeds and keep your hands away from your eyes, nose and lips to avoid transferring any of the active ingredient, capsaicin. A few useful guidelines to help you become familiar with chillies are: usually the smaller the chilli the hotter it is, the wider the top of the chilli, the milder it is, and red chillies are sweeter than green.
Photo: Rob Corlett
The focus of this article is on the chillies of Mexico and to provide some insight into the complexity of flavour that they bring to dishes.. Unfortunately the limited Mexican menus of fast food restaurants in this country provide an overly commercialised snapshot of what is actually a sophisticated and subtle cuisine. Each region in Mexico grows its own chillies and therefore the tastes of regional cuisine are based in the different flavours imparted from their chillies. For example in the Sierra Mixe Mountains in Oaxaca, Mexico, chillies are grown in the particular soils of the area within the microclimate of the mountains, then dried using artisan methods that includes smoking over open wood fires using the firewood of the forests of that area. The Pasilla Oaxaquena chilli that results is totally unique in flavour.

Chillies can be used either fresh, preserved or dried. Chillies are easy to grow and they are producing fruit now in abundance. A local producer of chillies, Vertu Specialty Foods, supplies chillies to both supermarkets and restaurants Dried chillies can be found in many stores-usually without identifying the type of chilli. Asian markets stock dried chillies in abundance but the genuine chillies of Mexico are not so easily available. The Kaitia Fire brand is available in Collingwood Street Fresh Choice and a significant number of types of dried chillies can be bought on line through Mexifoods, such as Guajilla, Ancho, Chipotle,Pasilla and Mulato. Go to www.mexifoods.co.nz. They also stock a range of different chilli seeds. They will ship to you within a few days. The addition to your pantry will not disappoint you.
Mercado Central, Santiago Chile
There is a process for using dried chillies which normally starts with washing them and drying them thoroughly then dry roasting them in a hot dry pan. They should be turned once and heated just to release their fragrance. If they are burned they become bitter –so less is more. The chillies are then opened and seeds and seed sac discarded before softening the chillies in hot water. (keep a few of the seeds if you want to hot up the recipe). Add enough water to cover the chillies and bring the water to the boil. Take the pot off the heat and leave the chillies to soak for about 15 minutes. They will have softened and plumped up and are now ready to use.
As there are over 200 varieties of Mexican chillies there is a steep learning curve for the uninitiated. Here we will focus on a few varieties to get you started.


Photo: Rob Corlett

Jalepeno-These are triangular in shape with a blunt end. They are usually 5-7 cm long. They are often pickled and are used in many sauces. They are generally hot and eaten green.
Chipotle is dried red jalepeno. When the jalapenos turn a deep red and are the last fruit on the plant they are selected to make chipotles. They are wood smoked then fully dried. Other chipotle chillies are known as Morita and produced in Northern Mexico. Chipotle are usually fairly hot.

Anneheim grow to 15-20cm and are mild and sweet when red and ripe. They can be used either green or red and are excellent stuffed. In their green state the taste is more vegetal.Pablano/Ancho This chilli is the backbone of many sauces. When the pablano is dried it is called an ancho. It is the chilli most often stuffed. It is a mild chilli and most regularly grown in the state of Pueblo in Mexico. They grow to about 10-12 cm and have a long tapering point.

Habanero are the hottest of the hot and match well with tomatoes. They are small and lantern shaped. They have tropical fruit notes . They are not for the faint hearted.Serrano are about 5cm long with a slightly pointed tip. They are red when fully ripe but are usually used in their green state. It is a hot chilli.
Chile de Arbol is a cayenne hybrid and is generally around 6-7cm in length. It is hot even from its immature state.
Fireflame is the chilli that is often found in NZ supermarkets. It has a long tapering pod and a generally mild flavour.Guajillo is a thick fleshed chilli, shiny deep orange red with brown tones, it has a green tea flavour with berry tones and is a hot chilli. It is very commonly used in Mexico in many sauces.

Recipes
The secret to the taste of Mexican food are the salsas or sauces or side dishes that accompany dishes and the variety and combination of chillies used. Salsa Verde (green) ,Salsa Negra (black) and Salsa Roja (red) are examples of salsas that can accompany many different dishes, combining equally well with fish, chicken, pork or (cannellini or pinto) beans if you prefer a vegetarian option. Salsa martajada is a recipe shared by Brisa Garcia Pelayo, a lovely young Mexican woman living in Nelson. She owns a restaurant/ hotel in Chacala, Nayarit, Mexico with her mother and sister called Las Brisas. This salsa comes from her restaurant.

Brisa’s Salsa Martajada (a salsa roja)
Makes 1.5 litres of salsa.
2 chillies-Serrano or de Arbol- leave the seeds in for a hotter salsa or remove them for a milder salsa.
6 tomatoes
2 cloves of garlic
1 whole clove
½ red onion finely chopped
2 tbs of fresh coriander finely chopped
1 tsp of oregano
Salt and pepper
Char grill the tomatoes and chillies to flavour them-over a gas flame. Dont totally char them as you retain the skins. Put the tomatoes and chillies into a pot and add water to just cover. Simmer for 10 minutes. Once soft remove the chillies and blend with the garlic and oregano. Grind the cloves in a mortar and pestle. At the end add the tomatoes and blend until the tomatoes are roughly chopped. Let it rest until it is cool. Add the sliced onions and coriander. Mix and serve.

Avocado with Serrano chillies and Guajillo Salsa
Serves four
1 dried guajillo pepper
4 medium tomoatoes
2 cloves of garlic
2 limes
2 avocados
Iceberg lettuce leaves
Fresh coriander
Prepare the pepper as described in the story above.
Blacken tomatoes and garlic directly over a gas flame (directly on the element- you can do this with an electric element as well. Use tongs to turn them. Cool and then peel off the blackened skin. Put the tomatoes, garlic and softened and chopped guajillo chilli into a food processor and coarsely mix. Add the juice of a lime and salt to taste.
Crush the flesh of an avocado and add one chopped Serrano chilli, juice of a lime, and salt to taste.
Place a large lettuce leaf on a plate. Spoon several tablespoons of avocado mixture onto the leaf and top with a generous tablespoon of salsa. Sprinkle with plenty of fresh coriander.

Chicken Mole
This is an authentic recipe for chicken mole given to me many years ago in Los Angeles by a Mexican woman who had immigrated to America. It uses New Mexican chillies primarily.
4 whole cloves
½ tsp ground ginger
/2 tsp cumin seeds
1 tsp ground cinnamon
¾ tsp oregano
3 garlic cloves
Salt and pepper
2 Serrano chillies
10-15 dried New Mexican or Anneheim Chilli pods

Prepare the New Mexican Chillies following the directions earlier in the story. When soaked, food process until smooth and thick.
Finely chop the Serrano chillies. Dry roast the cloves, and cumin. Pound them in a mortar and pestle.. Mix all the other ingredients together with a ¼ cup of chicken stock to make a paste add the cloves and cumin. Carefully saute the paste in 2 tbs of oil. Be careful that it does not burn. Add the Serrano chillies and simmer until they are softened. Add the New Mexican chillies and 1 cup of chicken stock. Season to taste. Simmer gently for 15 minutes.
Meanwhile divide up a chicken into portions and bake in a moderate oven until tender and cooked. Drain off any fat from the pan and add the mole sauce and allow the sauce and chicken to blend together for 15-20 minutes. Keep in a warm place. Sprinkle with fresh coriander and serve with rice and other salsas of your choice. Excellent with fresh corn tortillas.