Photo: Rob Corlett
Scallops are a rich and delicious shellfish that are sought after as a menu item when they are in season. They are culinary regulars in both Asian and Western cuisine and are prized in many cultures around the world. We regard them as quite commonplace in New Zealand, but in parts of Europe they are more scarce and expensive treasures.
They are remarkably versatile, combine extremely well with a range of flavours and can be enjoyed in many ways - raw on the shell (preferably on the side of a boat out in the bay), in sashimi, lightly sauteed with very little to adorn them, to more complex recipes involving wine and cheeses in classic recipes such as Scallops Mornay.
The key to cooking, as with any fish, is to not overcook them. A perfectly cooked scallop should still be slightly translucent in the centre.
A scallop is a bivalve (two shells) with one flat shell and one concave shell. The adductor muscle (the white meat) is used to open and close the shell. This white meat is the part that is called the scallop in culinary terms, along with the orange roe. (A great cooking hint about roe is that it can be used to thicken a sauce - just crush the roe into the poaching liquid and whisk, and the sauce will thicken). Interestingly, in North America the roe is taken from the scallop muscle and only the white part of the scallop is sold.
Scallops, like all shellfish, are an excellent source of Omega 3, an essential fatty acid that lowers cholesterol and aids circulation.
Scallops can be sourced all around New Zealand. Locally, the situation is a bit grim, with availability of scallops in Tasman Bay at dramatically low levels. People may not be aware that our scallop beds are dying and that there has been no commercial fishing in the bay for five years. Commercial supply is still viable in both Golden Bay and the Marlborough Sounds, and recreational fishers can still find some scallops in Tasman Bay, with adjacent areas still producing a good supply in the season from November to July. A recent article in The Nelson Mail featured recreational fishermen in Golden Bay who talked about the abundance of scallops there and the ease of catching them.
As mentioned earlier, scallops mix very well with a variety of flavours, and they taste particularly fabulous combined with the mild anise flavour of fennel.
Florence fennel or finocchio is an essential Italian herb (and vegetable) that has been grown and eaten in Italy forever but has only recently become available in New Zealand. It is similar to celery in many ways but has a wonderful anise flavour that adds so much to dishes. It can be found at Nelson City Fresh Choice and sometimes at New World. It can also be bought direct from Finocchio Farms (www.finocchifarm.co.nz). Fennel can be eaten raw in salads (sliced finely) or braised or sauteed (chopped into four pieces or more, depending on the size) and it is delicious chargrilled on the barbecue. Normally, it comes with some of the wispy herb on top, which can be chopped and added to whatever you are cooking. It has a delicious anise flavour, and this can be enhanced by adding some fennel seeds or a splash or two of pernod to the dish to give a more dramatic anise flavour. It is a great vegetable to experiment with if you haven't done so.
Three recipes follow that give you the opportunity to try this great combination of flavours and textures.
Seared Scallops with Fennel Puree and Citrus
Serves 5
250g fennel bulb
100g white onion
25 scallops
2 1/2 lemons
2 oranges in segments
2 limes in segments
150ml extra virgin olive oil
Salt and black pepper
Trim the fennel bulb and finely slice. Saute diced white onion and fennel bulb. Add lemon juice and a little water, cover and cook over a low heat until soft. Cool and puree in a blender or food processor with a little olive oil. The mixture should not be too runny; it needs to be able to be mounded on the plate when served.
Cut the limes, lemons and oranges into segments.
Make a dressing with equal parts olive oil and lemon juice; add salt and pepper to taste.
Sear the scallops in a hot pan with a little oil. The scallops should be golden on the outside and slightly translucent in the middle this will depend on the size of the scallop (generally about 1-2 minutes each side).
Warm the puree and place five spoonfuls of it on each plate. Top each mound with a scallop. Arrange segments neatly around the plate. Dress with the citrus dressing and garnish with some of the whispy fennel leaves from the top of the bulb.
Grilled Scallops and Fennel with Lime Pernod Dressing
Serves 3
1 large fennel bulb (or 2 smaller bulbs)
Slice the fennel bulb lengthwise into four portions. Lightly brush with olive oil and salt and pepper. Grill on the barbecue until it softens slightly and is well marked by the charcoal but is still slightly crisp.
15 scallops
Grill the scallops on the barbecue or in a pan for 1-2 minutes on each side.
Dressing
3 tbsp olive oil
1 tbsp lime juice
1 tsp pernod
1 tsp chilli flakes
Sea salt
Combine the ingredients and mix well.
Put the fennel on the plate first, add the scallops on top and pour the dressing over the top. Garnish with either fresh tarragon or parsley.
Lil's Pasta with Fennel, Prawn and Scallop Sauce
Serves 4
2 cloves garlic
2 medium-sized fennel bulbs
1 red onion
3 cans of Italian tomatoes
1 cup white wine
3 tbsp each fresh basil and oregano
1 tbsp toasted fennel seeds
1 cup olive oil
1 tsp Dijon mustard
Salt and black pepper
2 tsp raw sugar
20 scallops, 12 raw prawns (either in the shell or shelled)
400g fresh linguini pasta
Saute finely sliced fennel, onion and garlic in the olive oil until softened and turning slightly golden. Add the tomatoes, fennel seed, oregano and basil, mustard, sugar and salt and pepper. Simmer gently for about 30 minutes until the ingredients are well incorporated.
Cook the pasta until al dente. Add the prawns to the sauce and cook through. Add the scallops and cook until done just a few minutes, depending on the size of the scallops. Drain the pasta and serve with the seafood sauce. Add parmesan cheese to taste.
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