Fresh essentials for every cook

Possibly the single most fascinating aspect of flavour in food is the addition of herbs or spices.

They are perfect for adding nuance to meat and vegetable dishes. Every cook who wants to learn to develop flavour in their food should learn about herbs.

Fresh herbs are best for intensity of flavour, and growing your own is the best option. Failing that, buy them fresh, and if all else fails, buy small amounts of dried herbs. Most herbs lose their aroma and flavour quite quickly once dried.

Experiment using fresh herbs if they are new to you - you will be amazed at the results in the dishes you create.

The aromatics of fresh basil in particular, which is so abundant at this time of year, can never be reproduced in the dried form.

A number of herbs are essential for the herb garden or the pantry cupboard. These are basil, oregano, marjoram, rosemary, thyme, chives, tarragon, chervil, parsley (preferably Italian flat leaf), sage, coriander, mint, fennel and dill.

A single herb can sometimes come in different varieties. Thyme, for example, has both lemon and orange-scented varieties, which add additional dimensions to dishes alongside the specific herb flavour.

Each herb has a specific aroma and flavour, and the best way to learn about them is to experiment with quantities and combinations, raw and cooked, until you find the mix that works for you.

Use chives to provide a mild onion flavour. Garlic chives are also readily available. Regular chives and the garlic-flavoured variety are wonderful with egg and potato dishes.

Fennel and dill provide an anise flavour. Fennel combines brilliantly with lamb, fish and tomatoes, and the plant produces seeds that are used as a spice. Dill is great with eggs and fish.

Marjoram and oregano are wonderful in Italian dishes, particularly tomato-based dishes, and are excellent combined with garlic, pepper and salt as a rub or marinade for beef.

Vietnamese mint is a strong, pungent mint used mostly in southeast Asian recipes.

Parsley can be used in so many ways, raw and cooked, and combines extremely well with other herbs such as thyme, sage, oregano and basil.

Rosemary is a strong herb and should be used sparingly. The leaves are highly aromatic, but combine well with thyme. Try pounding a sprig or two of lemon thyme with half a dozen small leaves of rosemary, mixed with sea salt and black pepper, then rub it into a fish such as turbot before baking in the oven.

Sage is another strong herb that should be used sparingly. It combines very well with chicken or pork. Gently fry sage leaves in good-quality extra virgin olive oil, and the taste changes to something more delicate. The crispy leaves can be tossed on top of potato dishes or salads.

French tarragon is another herb with a delicate anise flavour, and is one of the classic herbs of French cuisine. It combines with chicken, fish and meat dishes and is an essential ingredient in bearnaise sauce - the perfect accompaniment to a steak (see recipe below).

Chervil is also one of the classic French herbs, with a delicate taste of both parsley and tarragon.

Coriander is a strong herb that you either love or hate, but is essential to Asian and Latin cooking. The plant also grows seeds that are used as a spice. Add it to soups and vegetable, meat, bean and rice dishes. It makes a wonderful chutney for Indian dishes and is a key ingredient in salsas from Mexico. It has strong spice notes and combines very well with chillis.

Last but not least in this list is basil - another anise-flavoured herb, which also has lots of floral aspects to its flavour. It is essential to Italian cuisine and is wonderful raw and in pesto. It should be added to dishes later in the cooking process to get the full impact of its flavour.

The following recipes provide some guidelines to the ways in which you can use herbs.

Bearnaise sauce
4-5 sprigs of fresh tarragon or 2 tbs of dried tarragon (must be French tarragon - not Russian, which does not have the same flavour or aroma) and the same quantities of chervil
2 shallots, finely chopped
1/2 cup of tarragon vinegar or white vinegar
1/4 cup of white wine

Combine in a saucepan and simmer gently to reduce to 1/8 cup or thereabouts. Sieve the mixture and cool.

In the top of a double boiler placed over simmering water (not boiling), add the reduced tarragon mixture. Add two egg yolks, one at a time, and whisk until smooth. Slowly add 250g of softened butter in small amounts, whisking each piece into the egg mixture. Continue whisking until you have a smooth, thickened mixture. Serve with your favourite steak.

Pesto
The idea of pesto is to combine large quantities of fresh herb - usually basil - with smaller quantities of nuts, parmesan cheese and garlic, mixed to a paste with good-quality oil.

These are the basic rules, but pesto can be made with lots of different herbs, and different nuts can be used to get different flavours. The best way is to experiment, which is also a wonderful way to become confident with using herbs.

4 cups fresh basil, washed and dried (Substitute with Italian parsley when basil isn't available, or add some thyme, sage and marjoram for a different flavour)
1/2 cup toasted pine nuts - or use almonds or hazelnuts
1/2 cup grated parmesan cheese
1 cup olive oil (use rice brain oil if you want a lighter mix)
3 cloves garlic
Salt and freshly ground pepper (use half a fresh chilli if you want a spicier mix)

Blend the mixture in a food processor to a smooth texture. Serve with many different dishes. This is great with pasta.

photo: Nelson Mail

Herb stuffing with roast chicken or pork or lamb

Make breadcrumbs from a day-old loaf of ciabatta or good-quality white bread, to make 2 cups.

Finely dice a medium red or yellow onion and saute gently in about 1/2 cup of olive oil and butter (or just butter) until soft. Chop lots of Italian parsley to make at least 3/4 cup - add 10 sprigs of thyme, 10 leaves of sage, a handful of basil and marjoram. Finely chop it all and add to the breadcrumbs and onion. Season to taste. The mixture should hold together without being sticky. It should be a bright green colour. Stuff inside a chicken or rolled pork or boned-out leg of lamb.

Coriander chutney

This is excellent with Indian food but is also a great accompaniment to chicken or vegetable dishes.

In a food processor, mix 2 cups of fresh coriander, 1/2 cup of mint (regular or Vietnamese), 1/4 cup of desiccated coconut, 2 cloves of garlic, 1 hot chilli, 1/4 cup of roasted peanuts, and vegetable oil to mix. Process until smooth.