The fruit of love

Photo: Rob Corlett

It looks all knobbly and gnarly, it's inedible when raw and it has long since been ripped out of most orchards. So why should we love the quince? Elizabeth Latham has the answer.

Those of us lucky enough to have a quince tree in our garden, or to have friends or neighbours who do (thank you Graham and Eileen Thawley), will know about the versatility and fragrance of the ancient yellow fruit.

Called the golden apple and once revered as the fruit of love, adored by the Greeks and Romans and used as a medicine for coughs in the Middle East, it has been much neglected in recent times in our part of the world. Even chopped out of orchard plots, it is now beginning to have a renaissance in terms of appreciation and use.

It is not a fruit to eat raw, although in this state it has a glorious fragrance and it makes an excellent room deodoriser should you need one.

Quinces are a food of Europe and trees can be found everywhere in the world that has a Mediterranean climate.

Quince paste is a staple in Europe and each country has its own name for it. In Spanish-speaking countries it is known as membrillo, and in France it is called cotignac.

Quince paste is outstanding with a strong cheese such as stilton or gorgonzola yet equally delicious with brie or a tasty cheddar. You can heat it and add spices to it, such as cinnamon or cloves, and use it as a marinade for pork or chicken.

Quinces are related to both apples and pears and should be picked as they turn from green to bright yellow. The fruit does not soften as it ripens and if it is soft, it is most likely rotten.

The raw fruit is astringent and hard, so cooking is essential. When it is cooked, the quince still has a strong perfume and is delicious added in small quantities to any dish containing apples and pears. When raw, particularly, the fruit has a gritty texture that is still a feature of it when cooked.

Once cooked, it changes to a deep ruby red. This colour change comes about from the tannins in the fruit breaking down during cooking and bonding with oxygen chemicals to form anthocyanins, the plant pigments that cause fruit to be red. Magic!

Photo: Nelson Mail

QUINCE JELLY

2kg of washed quinces
Sugar
Cold water

1. Roughly chop quinces and place in a large pot. Just cover them with cold water.
2. Bring to the boil and simmer until the fruit is soft. Cool.
3. Place pulp in two layers of muslin set over a bowl. Leave hanging for about four hours.
4. Measure or weigh the quince juice and pour the measured juice into a large pot.
5. Add an equal amount of sugar to juice, ie, for every cup of juice, add a cup of sugar.
6. Cook over a low heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar. When the sugar has dissolved, bring the syrup to the boil. Boil rapidly and continue to boil until set.
7. The setting point will vary. To test, put a spoonful of the mixture onto a chilled saucer and cool. The surface should set. Push it gently and if it wrinkles, it is ready.
8. Pour into sterilised, warm jars and seal tightly.

Photo: Marion van Dijk Nelson Mail


QUINCE PASTE OR MEMBRILLO
This Spanish recipe has a twist that makes it just a little more special than regular quince paste.

2 kg of quince, washed, peeled, cored, roughly chopped
1 vanilla pod, split
2 strips of lemon peel without the pith
3 Tbsp lemon juice

1. About 4 cups of sugarPlace quince pieces in a large pot and cover with water. Add the vanilla pod and lemon peel and bring to a boil. Reduce to a simmer, cover, and cook the quince for 30 to 40 minutes.
2. Strain the water from the quince and discard the vanilla pod.
3. Puree the quince pieces in a food processor. Weigh the quince puree. You will need to use the same amount of sugar.
4. Return the quince puree to the large pan. Slowly heat and add the sugar. Stir with a long wooden spoon until the sugar has completely dissolved. Add the lemon juice.
5. Continue to cook over a low heat, stirring occasionally, for about 1 1/2 hours, until the quince paste is thick and a deep orange-pink colour. Watch yourself, as the mixture pops and you can easily burn yourself.
6. Preheat oven to about 50 degrees Celsius. Line a baking pan with greased baking paper. Pour the cooked quince paste into the baking pan and place in the oven for about an hour to help it dry. Remove from oven and let cool.
7. To serve, cut into squares or wedges. Store by wrapping in foil or plastic wrap, and keep in the refrigerator.
8. Add quince paste to just about anything.
9. Quince paste adds a tangy sweetness to sauces. It is particularly delicious with meats such as pork and duck. It is equally delicious with salmon. Add a tablespoon at a time and taste between spoonfuls. People will wonder what that secret flavour element is!

QUINCE AIOLI
Use this as an accompaniment to meat but also try it alongside a potato frittata.

250g quince paste
1 crushed clove of garlic
15ml rice bran oil
Salt and pepper
Lemon juice

1. Blend the paste and garlic in a food processor and slowly drizzle in the oil, blending continuously. Add salt, freshly ground black pepper and lemon juice to taste.

SLOW-COOKED QUINCE
Serves 4

2 medium quince
2/3 cup sugar
2/3 cup water
1 clove
1 Tbsp lemon juice
1 apple

1. Preheat oven to 120degC.
2. Peel and halve the quince. Carefully core the quince halves. Keep all the peel and trimmings. Combine the sugar, water, clove and lemon juice in a covered shallow baking dish. Whisk to dissolve the sugar. Add the quince halves, cut side down, and the trimmings. Coarsely grate a peeled apple over the quince halves. This will prevent the quince from drying out while baking.
3. Cover and bake for 5 to 7 hours until the fruit softens and turns pink or possibly even bright red! Serve with lashings of whipped cream.